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Good morning! Today in Pre Shift, we’re talking about pausing service for the winter. After the chaos of the holiday season, January is a notoriously slow month for restaurants, and a pretty reasonable time to feel a little burnt out. But the decision to hibernate — or “pickle,” as Brooklyn restaurant Pitt’s put it — isn’t an easy one. I chatted with three restaurants that have or are currently pressing pause to learn how they prepare, what they do with their time off and more. 

Read on for their tips, plus a (sad) truth about pizza sales right now, an unorthodox employee policy, and more.

—Mary Anne Porto, senior editor

 

The Restaurant: Shipwright’s Daughter
The Chef: David Standridge

Shipwright’s Daughter is a restaurant located in The Whaler’s Inn, a hotel in Mystic, Connecticut, with a focus on seafood and New England cuisine. They paused lunch and dinner service from January 5 to 14, but kept breakfast open to accommodate hotel guests.

Seafood gets the spotlight at Shipwright’s Daughter. | Lisa Nichols

Pre Shift: Why did you decide to take a pause this winter?

Chef David Stanridge: We do it every year. We’re lucky to be busy enough throughout the year that we’re financially able to take a break in January. This year, we took 10 days. There are a lot of reasons, but in general, we all just need a break. For me personally, this is the only time I can really feel like I’m off work. For other managers, it’s an opportunity to work, if they choose, and to tackle larger projects — like implementing a new POS system or deep-cleaning and reorganizing the kitchen. We also schedule all of our major maintenance during this time. Our entire operation relies on a single oven, so if it goes down, it impacts everything. We use this time to do a seasonal overhaul and make sure it’s fully tuned up for the year ahead.

What do you plan to do while the restaurant is closed for lunch and dinner service?

I always take my annual family vacation during this time. We go to Rincón, Puerto Rico, every year. Some of the team chooses to work and take time off at other times during the year, but for me, having Shipwright’s Daughter closed is a special opportunity to really tune out — at least, as much as I ever truly can.

How did you prepare the restaurant for the pause? 

Our CDC, Michael McHugh, did a wonderful job finishing the year with empty walk-ins. It’s a tricky thing to offer a full menu one day and then be closed the next, but we did a great job winding down our inventory and adjusting all of our prep schedules. Nothing goes to waste. If there’s something we can’t use up or save, we’ll serve a really nice family meal on the last night.

Any advice for other restaurants that plan on taking a pause?

Do it if you can! The restaurant industry is a grind. It’s incredibly beneficial to be able to shut off the machine and start fresh with a clean kitchen and a clear, relaxed state of mind.

The Restaurant: Mimi Chinese
The Chef: David Schwartz, culinary director and co-owner

Mimi Chinese, which has locations in Miami and Toronto, serves dishes from China’s Guangdong province. Late last year, the Canadian location announced it would be pausing service from January 4 to February 6.

Mimi Chinese is currently working on R&D for its reopening menu. | Daniel Neuhaus 

Pre Shift: Why did you decide to take a pause this winter?

David Schwartz: We’re using the pause to refresh the dining room and lean harder into classic, old-school comfort. We’re introducing white tablecloths, new floors and a few millwork additions to bring real life back into the space. At the same time, we’ll be deep in R&D on a newly designed menu.

How did you prepare the restaurant for the pause? 

We've been treating the lead-up like a controlled transition, not a scramble. Operationally, we planned our ingredient purchasing around minimizing waste, and we started phasing out items that won’t be on the next menu. We gave our regulars a clear heads-up that this is a temporary pause for a refresh.

For the reopening, most of the prep has been about the menu: recipe testing and tightening specs so we’re reopening with dishes that are not half-baked. 

Any advice for other restaurants that plan on taking a pause?

Have a clear reason and a clear plan. A pause is expensive, and it creates uncertainty the moment you announce it, so you need to know exactly what you’re improving and how you’re coming back stronger. For us, the goal is longevity through growth without losing what people fell in love with in the first place. We’re using the time to sharpen the room and expand the menu, deepening our focus on regional Chinese cooking while making it easier to come back to more often. We’ve been planning it for a long time, and that planning is the difference.

The Restaurant: Baan Lao
The Chef: John Phanthoupheng, partner

Baan Lao’s current menu includes a tiger prawn with lobster tom yum dish. | Luis Valdizon

Led by chef Nutcha Phanthoupheng, Baan Lao offers a tasting menu centered around Royal Thai cuisine. Every year, Phanthoupheng and her partner John pause service to visit Thailand; this year, they’re closed from January 5 to February 6.

Pre Shift: Why did you decide to take a pause this winter?

John Phanthoupheng: Every year, we return to Thailand to gather new ideas, look for and taste new ingredients, shop for new supplies, meet friends and family, and be inspired. For one month, we relax, rejuvenate and replenish our mind, body, and spirit. What we love the most is to spend one month with our two daughters. It strengthens our family bond and allows us to inspire and teach them to work smart, take risks, and be open-minded and embrace new cultures, experiences and food. 

How did you prepare the restaurant for the pause? 

In Thailand, we’ll be sourcing new ingredients, selecting new plates, designing new menus, and preparing to launch a new menu in late March. 

Any advice for other restaurants that plan on taking a pause?

We highly recommend business owners take a week or two for themselves and their employees. We notice increased productivity and morale; our team returns to work with a new purpose, inspiration, and energy.  

Responses have been edited and condensed.

—Mary Anne Porto, senior editor

 

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Copper Mountain Mercantile, an apparel and snack shop in Colorado, recently explained why staff are allowed to take the morning off for outdoor adventures on powder days. Do you have an unorthodox employee policy that you think others should adopt? I want to hear about it! Hit reply and let me know.

 

Pre Shift is for the trade, and by the trade. We want to bring in your voices and hear your ideas. Have thoughts? Let us know by emailing preshift@voxmedia.com.

 

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