Welcome to Kang Town, where you'll find the latest West Coast restaurant reporting, analysis, and industry intel from me, your LA-based correspondent, Matthew Kang. |
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A few weeks back, my wife Rochelle — 36 weeks pregnant at the time — and I drove up to Muse in Santa Monica, tucked next to celebrity-famous Giorgio Baldi on sleepy Channel Road just off Pacific Coast Highway. It’s a tiny, very pretty, pink-splashed 35-seat French hideaway from first-time restaurateur and chef Fardad Khayami. After flaky laminated brioche, perfectly medium-rare lamb chops, and a lemon tart that Rochelle couldn’t stop eating, we went home.
Then, at 2 a.m., Rochelle, who had been complaining of some back pain during dinner, woke me up and said, “We gotta go.”
“Go where?” I asked.
“To the hospital.” A few hours later, our second son, Marcelo, was born. Marcelo spent 11 days in the NICU under amazing care (shoutout to all the nurses, doctors, and therapists) and came home on April 22 to his very excited older brother, Enzo.
Most people just give up on dining out when their kid gets to a certain age, or they start acting out, or they’re joined by a sibling, but I can’t do that, since going to restaurants is my job. I’ve had dozens of meals with Enzo over his first 3.5 years, including three trips to Asia and an amazing dinner at Michelin-starred Kato. My parents took me out from a young age and taught me to order and behave. I wasn’t always perfect, but I think their patience helped make me the restaurant aficionado that I am today. I intend to continue eating out constantly, especially with my family.
I’ll be taking a few weeks off to hang out with them, but don’t worry — you’ll still get this newsletter every week. In the meantime, you’ll be hearing from some of my talented colleagues, and some smart industry folks I pay attention to. And we’ve got some exciting stuff planned for when I return.
For now, I’ll leave you with my tips for dining out with children, whether you’re a new parent or a seasoned caregiver who needs to get back on the horse. |
Enzo taking after his father at Beginner's Diner in San Diego. Credit: Matthew Kang |
Find LA’s most kid-friendly restaurants
My Eater colleague Nicole Fellah, who has a 3-year-old, put together a handy guide to the most kid-friendly restaurants in the city: Check it out on the Eater app. |
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Don’t force it
Every couple years, there’s a fresh debate about whether kids belong in restaurants, especially high-end ones. I wouldn’t judge a place for not being kid-friendly. I think that’s really up to the restaurant, and it’s on parents to read between the lines if the policy isn’t explicit one way or the other.
It might take some sleuthing to see if a restaurant has high chairs and can fit strollers (even if they need to be parked outside). I look for booths and extra table space for laying out coloring, books, or toys. It might take a phone call or an email to know for sure. If you’re not seeing definitive proof, just pick another place to spend your money.
Eat as early as possible
I used to be fine with 8:30 p.m. reservations. Now, I’m first to grab the 5 p.m. table. Kids obviously have to eat early so you can get them home in time for bed, and they’re usually hungry after day care or school. But I also love an early seating because restaurants tend to be less crowded, so there are fewer people for your kids to annoy — though since the pandemic, earlier reservations have become more popular.
If we can’t dine early, the latest I’ll sit down with the family is 7 p.m. In those cases, I usually have my full order ready before we’re seated, and I ask my server to bring the kids’ dish(es) first so we can start feeding them before we enjoy our meal.
Ask for a table far away
I used to be one of those people who didn’t like screaming kids while I was dining out. I try to remember that feeling now that I’m a parent. I kindly ask hosts to seat us on the opposite end of the dining room from most diners and away from the bar if possible. I respect people who want to have a quiet, relaxed date, and accommodate them (versus the other way around).
BYO supplies
We have a bag we keep in the car of coloring books, small toys, games, puzzles, and illustrated books to keep kids entertained. Lots of restaurants have crayons and pages, which is amazing, but I wouldn’t rely on these things to occupy kids for too long. Also, we bring pajamas, toothbrush, and toothpaste to prep the kid in the car for bed just in case they fall asleep on the ride home (which honestly, is always a relief).
Have an escape plan
After about an hour, kids won’t want to stay put. Rather than grind it out at the table, I like to take them for a walk around the neighborhood. You can explore and stimulate your kid, and allow them to return after a short break. This is also a good opportunity to allow your other dining companions to eat without distraction. |
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Taking advantage of BYO activities at Agnes in Pasadena. Credit: Matthew Kang |
Don’t be ashamed to use a device — eventually
Screen time is a very hot topic among parents, and my first rule is: Don’t judge anyone. Every summer, I melted my mind in front of the television for 12 hours a day, and I turned out okay. (I can still read a book and everything.) But, I will say, less is better, so I tend to bust out the tablet or phone toward the latter half of the meal (though sometimes we don’t even need a screen). It acts as a reward for good behavior and helps kids stay put until dessert, which is usually a good segue to put the devices away.
Clean up as best as you can
Kids make a mess, and the mess can get into very small spaces. Try your best to clean up, bring lots of wipes and paper towels to aid the cause, but know that there’s a limit to what you can do. Ultimately, restaurant staff will have to tidy up with brooms and mops after service is over, but they might appreciate your effort all the same.
Tip well, and say thank you
You don’t have to leave 50 percent, but anything above a standard tip is a way to appreciate all the ways the restaurant has accommodated your family: hauling over high chairs, cleaning up, or sending out dishes early. I also remember to say thank you to servers and bussers, and remember their names so I can ask if they can serve us on follow-up visits. Kids recognize this gratitude and learn to become polite, self-aware diners like I was able to become — at least, that’s what I tell myself.
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Tell me more
Got a tip for me? Need restaurant recommendations? Let me know your thoughts by replying to this email or sending a message directly to kangtown@eater.com. And who knows, your comment could be the spark for my next newsletter. |
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