As a kid, I’d regularly accompany my father on his boat off the Jersey Shore to fish for fluke or bluefish or help him pluck meat from crabs. Back then, my go-to fish restaurants were casual, local spots with docks to tie up boats. Today, in New York, I can choose from an array of options, both upscale and laid-back, as seafood restaurants flourish — buoyed by the rise of sushi spots and a growing preference for a more health-conscious diet.
Like many New Yorkers (and bridge-and-tunnel commuters), I’m still smitten with Grand Central Oyster Bar where my order is a dozen bivalves and a New England clam chowder; I can’t resist stopping by the Whispering Gallery on the way out. And the Balthazar seafood tower as well as Lure Fishbar’s crispy sushi rice are among my longtime favorite spots.
In the past year or so though, I’ve been keeping track of fish restaurants that are encroaching like a rising tide, with options like the seafood steakhouse from a Top Chef winner and a brasserie among them.
That leads me to what’s changed in this update, which includes the trimming of Johnny’s Reef, Abuqir, A Salt & Battery, Mariscos El Submarino, Greenpoint Fish and Lobster Co., Maison Premiere, and Lenny’s. I’ve added three places: the storied Balthazar; Danny Garcia’s seafood steakhouse Time and Tide; and the French-leaning Crevette from the Lord’s and Dame folks, Patricia Howard and chef Ed Szymanski.
Melissa McCart is the lead editor of the Northeast region with more than 20 years of experience as a reporter, critic, editor, and cookbook author; she grew up in a fisherman’s family and knows the difference between fresh water and salt water smelt among other bits of seafood trivia. She’s relatively proficient in netting crabs from piles in the dark as well as raking sand for clams.
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