Outside the historic center, Da Burde is one of the city’s finest family-run institutions for traditional Florentine food. The trattoria has an atmosphere that’s both old-world wine bar and homey banquet, where sincere family recipes are earnestly prepared from scratch. The trek to Da Burde is worth it for diners in search for true Florentine relics, passed-down specialties like minestrone, meatballs, chickpea farinata, and grilled meats, all with incredible wines to match.

The Florentine culinary repertoire historically excludes pizza, but the city is still a magnet for exceptional pizza-makers. If you’re craving a well-crafted pie, look no further than Santarpia, which combines new-wave creativity with traditional heart. Pizza chef Giovanni Santarpia hails from Campania and has spent years earning feathers as one of the best pizzaioli in the country. He’s obsessed with dough and ingredient quality, fermentation, and warm hospitality. The craft beer selection is top-notch as well. Santarpia is outside the historic center of town, but worth the detour.

Timeless restaurants like this make Florence special: Sabatino’s is a family-run, egalitarian joint that hasn’t changed much since it opened in 1956. Pasta dishes at this walk-in-only trattoria hover at 4.50 euros, while meaty mains like roast chicken clock in at a mere 5.50 euros. The simple homestyle cooking and bargain prices are a testament to Italy’s all-inclusive food culture. You don’t need to be well-off to eat well here.

You could throw a rock in any direction and hit a good restaurant in Florence, but it’s a little harder to hit a place with remarkable wine offerings too. Il Guscio has been around since 1986 and has a menu that takes homestyle Tuscan and Italian classics to gourmet status: gnudi dumplings made with scamorza and spinach pesto, Maldon-salted sliced sirloin with julienned vegetables, paccheri pasta with spicy Calabrian ’nduja and burrata, beet risotto. The wine list is rife with boutique, biodynamic, and terroir-centered producers, heavy on Tuscan wines balanced with an ample selection of crucial bottles from around the country, selections from France, and plenty of sparkling. Portions are hearty, so make sure you order to share, and save room for dessert, which is very much on point.

Ruggero is described by locals as a tuffo nel passato (blast from the past). The time capsule trattoria hasn’t updated its decor since the ’70s, but the affordable local fare has held up. Come for quality options such as pici pasta, roast pork, tender filetto (tenderloin), and seasonal sides (porcini, zucchini flowers, artichokes). The calling card primo dish is spaghetti alla carrettiera, a dense red sauce preparation with a kick of chile, anchovies, breadcrumbs, and herbs. Ruggero isn’t quite in the historic center, but it’s worth the walk past the Porta Romana.

Florence isn’t the ideal destination for seafood lovers, but this is a gem worth seeking out — if only for a break from meat-centric Tuscan cuisine. There isn’t one thing this seafood eatery doesn’t do well: risotto, luscious Sicilian gambero rosso shrimp pastas, tender grilled octopus, and seasonal catches of the day sourced locally and from regional Italian seafood bastions such as Sardinia. Service is hit-or-miss and the space could use more natural light, but the quality of dishes and location, hidden from tourist droves, more than make up for it. The wine selection is decent too.

Located in Piazza del Cestello, Essenziale challenges Florence’s otherwise sluggish experimental dining scene. As the name suggests, the restaurant focuses on the essential aspects of modernist dining, with a minimalist atmosphere that keeps attention on the plate. Chef Simone Cipriani is known for deftly diverging from the heavily regimented repertoire of Florentine cuisine and revisiting classic dishes, like turning pappa al pomodoro into a savory doughnut. Expect unusual shake-ups to Italian foundations with tacos slathered with ’nduja mayo, banana gnocchi, squab yakitori, riffs on panna cotta with almond and Sichuan pepper, and offal spins on classic pastas. The rotating themed tasting menu is exciting at various price points, starting from 65 euros.

Trattorias in Florence are usually lionized shells of some original decades-old greatness. Not Dalla Lola, co-owned by Matilde Pettini (daughter of iconic Cammillo owner Chiara Masiero) and tucked behind the Piazza Santo Spirito. The trattoria caters to locals with an edgy approach to nostalgic Tuscan dishes, utilizing nearly forgotten ingredients, such as obscure pasta shapes, alongside vegan and vegetarian options; think peak-season strawberry gazpacho with Pugliese burrata and fried Tuscan panzanella bread bits, Tuscan classics like tagliolini in sugo finto (ragu of minced vegetables in loads of tomato), and comforting fried braciole and roasted potatoes.

Located in the bohemian Oltrarno (“other side of the Arno river”), Cammillo is an old-school trattoria serving straightforward Tuscan fare with white-tablecloth service. The prices are above average for homestyle dining, but it’s worth the extra money for expertly prepared rustic classics like winter ribollita soup finished with proprietary olive oil, warm root vegetable salads, bistecca fiorentina, and game meats. Trust the pasta offerings: The family that owns the place has roots in Italy’s pasta capital, Bologna.

Adventurous eaters, Il Magazzino is your jam. Sample gourmet versions of Florence’s street food lampredotto in a sit-down osteria setting: fried meatballs of the gutsy stuff, lampredotto-filled ravioli topped with Tropea onion sauce, and even tempura-fried lampredotto sushi, which nods to chef Luca Cai’s stint in Japan. Everything on the menu is pretty stellar, except the steak. Stick to the pastas and organ meats, and you’ll land a one-of-a-kind meal. (Dining with a squirmy eater or vegetarian? Have no fear — non-offal options are also available.)

The canonical Buca Lapi is the kind of spot where you can rub shoulders with well-heeled Florentines and global dignitaries (former Japanese emperor Akihito dined here) over tender steaks, old-school buttered pasta, bitter greens, homey soups, and fine wines. “Buca” means hole, and venues with the name served historically as underground wine cellars, but they now tend toward white tablecloths. Buca Lapi has been serving locals and visitors since 1880 under the palace of the Antinori family (who named the space after the original innkeeper, Orazio Lapi) between the Duomo and the main train station. Advance reservations are a must and smart formal dress recommended.  

Tucked away off the Ponte Vecchio is one of the most revered wine bars in the country. Part shop, part bar and local hangout, Le Volpi pours and sells bottles that uniquely represent the Italian wine landscape, highlighting passionate producers. A crack team of winemakers, sommeliers, and wine educators staff the bar, and if they hook you up with a wine you love, you can join the wine club or ship bottles abroad. The bar serves choice meat and cheese plates and warm crostini toasts to accompany tastings. If you see wild boar fennel salami, snag a plate. And you can’t leave without having the crostino with melted lardo and asiago, or the finger panini with cured duck breast and butter.

Another time-cherished eatery, this basement wine cellar-turned-restaurant is small on space but big on soul. Dive deep into true Florentine cuisine with mainstays like ribollita soup, gnudi, artichoke omelet, panzanella, maltagliati pasta, steak, and fried cow brain — plus a great wine list. Overlook the rough-around-the-edges service, and you’ll find one of the best meals Florence has to offer.

If the chaotic, crowded local trattorias aren’t your thing, head to 150-plus-year-old Sergio Gozzi for a similar slice of ambiance and culinary history — but with more space and less waiting. A true Florentine trattoria, Sergio Gozzi changes up its renowned fried offerings based on the seasons: fried zucchini flowers in the summer and artichokes in the winter. Also keep an eye out for porchetta, peposo (beef stew slow-cooked in wine and whole peppercorns), and one of the best pappa al pomodoro soups in town. Only open for lunch, Gozzi offers traditional homestyle food at reasonable prices.

Trattoria Mario in San Lorenzo, near Mercato Centrale, is equally liked by guidebook-clutching travelers and locals. It’s one of the few trattorias left in the historic center that delivers on budget, soul, and unfussy rib-sticking Tuscan fare. Order anything fried, Tuscan bean- or bread-based peasant soups, la bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone), gamey ragu-coated pastas, or juicy arista (roasted pork loin). The vegetables are predictably overcooked, but you’re not here for vitamins. Arrive as early as possible, as the best menu items sell out quickly.

Veteran gelato makers, who have been crafting exceptional scoops for decades, have sustained Florence’s gelato cred in the face of an onslaught of tourist traps serving mountains of artificially produced gelato. But, one of the newer gelato shops is a noteworthy example of the younger generation bravely carrying the torch in the city considered to be the birthplace of gelato. Run by a husband-wife duo, My Sugar meticulously churns out classic flavors like bittersweet chocolate and Bronte pistachio, seasonal fruit like kid-approved strawberry and watermelon, and more worldly flavors including black sesame, green tea, pure peanut, and dark chocolate spiked with local chianti. Tip: Gelato should never be scooped from a mound, but instead from pans where it lays flat or ribboned. Ideally, it’s served from carapine, covered metal cylinders that sit under the counter.

Eating and drinking well near the Duomo isn’t impossible thanks to places like Coquinarius. This bistro with a vintage feel is perfect for diners who treat wine as the main course and food as the garnish. The selection is ample (almost overwhelming if you don’t ask for help) and constantly renewed with hard-to-find wines. Pair your glass with pastas like burrata-filled ravioli in pistachio pesto, comfort food classics like wine-braised beef cheek and whipped potatoes, various tartare options with salads, or charcuterie platters and crostini. A second location in Fiesole is a good stop if checking out the Roman and Etruscan ruins in the scenic town perched above Florence.

A short walk from the Uffizi Gallery, this tiny eatery makes its intentions clear on the handwritten menu outside: no pizza, no ice, no cappuccino, and no steak. This osteria serves traditional Tuscan food, and is known for its pappardelle in duck ragu, ribollita soup, fragrant saffron pasta tossed with zucchini flowers and a touch of cream, and meat-based mains like tomato-stewed cod and rolled, stuffed pork. This soulful Florentine institution is heavily frequented by locals — reservations are necessary.

Mexico meets Japan in Florence at Massimo Bottura’s one-Michelin-starred outpost at Gucci in the city’s historic political center, Piazza della Signoria. It’s helmed by Mexican chef Karime Lopez with Japanese husband Takahiko Kondo (Bottura’s long-time right hand at Modena’s Osteria Francescana), who channel their respective home countries and their impressive experience in renowned kitchens around the world. The kitchen utilizes seasonal Tuscan ingredients, prized Italian produce like Sicilian citrus, and obscure finds such as Umbrian purple corn in ceviche tostadas. A meal here is definitely a splurge (as one might expect from the names Bottura and Gucci), but you won’t leave hungry or underwhelmed thanks to a thoughtfully crafted menu that isn’t overly esoteric. A la carte and tasting options are available for lunch and dinner. Book well in advance.

Located in a Renaissance-era palace once owned by the Medici family, Locale is fine dining for craft-cocktail enthusiasts, with stellar service under original frescos. The avant-garde cocktail lounge (which won a spot on the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2022) boasts towering shelves of specialty spirits and an undercurrent of experimental flair. Along with the drinks, emerging young chef Simone Caponnetto prepares an inventive modernist seasonal tasting menu that features items like wild Tuscan herbs paired with smoked teas, chard millefoglie, and savory gelato; the kitchen also hosts occasional pop-ups by Italian chefs of similar vision. Below the main space, there’s an underground science lab, where bartenders concoct carrot-infused vodkas, redistilled gins, house-made kombucha with obscure local dried flowers, and CBD-vaporized cocktails.

Tuscan cuisine is the foundation at this “culinary club,” but diners revel in finding specialties from across the boot on the menu. The owner and head chef inspires memories from nonna's kitchen, using obscure regional ingredients and materie prime (raw materials) from the most idyllic producers in the country, like one that supplies cheese aged in Etruscan-era caves. The fried polpette di bollito (beef croquettes) are must haves, as are charcuterie boards, rabbit and olives, and the potato-filled tortelli with various options of ragu (the goat is a win).

Savvy Sicilian chef Carmelo Pannocchietti is a fixture in Florence. His Sicilian street food outposts can satisfy a cannoli craving, but Arà also makes notably generous ragu-filled arancini, slabs of Sicilian pizza, granitas, and arguably the best Bronte pistachio gelato in town. Pannocchietti has expanded his venture into a bit of an empire, with pop-up stands along the river in the summer, an outpost on the top floor of the Mercato Centrale food hall, and a sit-down fast-casual deli (similar to a tavola calda). Don’t sleep on the natural wine list, which has some mind-boggling delicious options sourced from the eponymous island.

A treasure trove for natural wine lovers, Vineria Sonora combines a vinyl record store with a bar-bistro setting, featuring both DJs and winemakers. Nowhere else in Florence houses such an immense selection of minimal-intervention Italian wines, including plenty of obscure garage-based makers and cult favorites. The food features artisanal specialty ingredients from across the country, with a sprinkling of Calabria where owners Laura Giovinetti and Andrea Marsico hail from. Simple yet adventurous small plates include wild game tartares, roasted porchetta, rustic lasagna with wild boar, Calabrian chile ’nduja crostini, and seasonal accouterments like baked squash and artichokes. Giovinetti and Marsico also run a spillover bar across the street, Lato B (B-Side), which serves aperitivo with bar bites, vinyl records, and zines for sale.

For Roman-style pizza by the slice, La Divina Pizza is worth a visit. Made with high-quality local ingredients, pizza here comes topped with thoughtful combinations of artisan cheeses, meats, and seasonal produce. Try the fresh fig and burrata or the spicy sliced salami with plump purple olives. A few slices is ideal for a quick lunch with a glass of beer or prosecco.

Cibrèo is a cluster of Tuscan eateries congregated at the gate of the city’s most genuine Florentine food quarter, Sant’Ambrogio. The restaurants were founded by culinary icon Fabio Picchi and Benedetta Vitali; after Picchi’s death in 2022, their son Giulio now oversees the business. Across six outposts, Cibrèo celebrates the region’s bounty and flavors while adhering to certain cornerstones of the Florentine and Tuscan repertoire. The offerings at the trattoria are dedicated to rustic Tuscan cooking, like rib-sticking soups, roasted game, and obscure offal preparations like stuffed chicken neck. Creativity shows through in the popular ricotta and potato sformatino souffle and in some out-of-the-box riffs on Florentine staples, like a budino made with turmeric and lemon Greek yogurt. Don’t come expecting pasta and pizza.

Young Florentines are molding the dining scene into something more refined and international, and there are few places left in the city where you can experience an old-fashioned, family-run greasy spoon, complete with the staff hollering at each other as if they were in their own living room. For that, head to this trattoria inside the Sant'Ambrogio market. Beat the crowds by going before 1 p.m., or join them in the small booths for dirt-cheap plates of panzanella in the summer, pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup) in the spring, and everything else in between, like simple pastas, meat and potatoes, and hearty desserts of caramelized pears.

For the best sandwich in the world, according to obviously biased owner Marco Paparozzi, head to his tiny panino stall perched on the curb of the Sant'Ambrogio market. Fillings here break the usual meat-and-cheese mold, drawing from Tuscan-inspired flavors and dishes: Think stewed donkey, pear, pecorino, and truffle; wild boar sausage and broccoli rabe; and, at times, carb-on-carb taglierini pasta panino. Select your filling from the rotating chalkboard menu and Paparozzi or his nephew will promptly whip up a flavorful panino and insist it be washed down with a small glass of wine.

On the lip of Sant’Ambrogio in Piazza Beccaria, you’ll find the fanciest pastry spot in the historic center. The decor is like being in a ballroom, colored old-school with teal and featuring classic ceramics and glassware. This spot is beloved for its dedication to artisanal raw ingredients, such as Valrhona cacao for its flourless chocolate cake and cherry-picked figs and forest fragoline (wild strawberries) from the local markets for its mini seasonal fruit tartlets. The cafe also procures Florentine classics like puff pastry sfoglia and budino di riso (rice pudding in shortbread crust). It’s tiny inside, with a few tables on the curb, but it’s worth it to squeeze in. It also has an espresso machine in what appears to be a closet, but within is specialty coffee from Cafe Piansa, an institutional craft roaster. This is the ideal place for Italian breakfast, and if you insist on having a cornetto and cappuccino, this spot does them properly.