With inspiration from the northwestern state of Sinaloa, Taqueria Sinaloense mainly serves a pan-Mexican menu in Marble Hill, a picturesque Bronx neighborhood overlooking the Harlem River. Two unique tacos are available, including tacos gobernador (governor’s tacos) loaded with shrimp and hot green chiles, and tacos de canasta, with the tortillas dipped in oil as a sort of temporary preservative that allows them to be sold from baskets by street vendors and taken on picnics.

There’s no need to look further than the beautiful twirling cylinder of pork al pastor in the window to know which taco to get. It’s one of the best tacos in town. Watching the carver at work makes the taco twice as tasty, and there’s an impressive array of toppings, running to dried red chiles, chiles in oil, pickled jalapenos, and an array of colorful salsas. Miniature tacos and a wide variety of traditional fillings are also available.

This old-fashioned Upper East Side lunch counter was taken over by a Mexican proprietor, who still offers hamburgers and toasted cheese, but the menu has been built out with tacos and burritos. The taco fillings (chicken, steak, pork), are all good, and a special features two tacos sharing a plate with an order of french fries, which feels like a genius cross-cultural move. (Put the french fries inside the taco!)

The most recent addition to a three-taqueria chain is located in Long Island City and has a shady outdoor seating area when summer rolls around. It also has one of the region’s most extensive lists of tacos, including such rarities as tacos arabes and tacos of pickled cow feet, along with some beguiling salsas.

This newcomer to the Mexican food scene at the Jackson Heights and Elmhurst border was one of the first places to bring Mexican pizzas to the city. But it also has an extensive roster of tacos, partly as a result of its connection to the Homemade Taqueria chain. Tacos are described as taquitos because of their slightly smaller size, and sold in fours though you can mix them up, and variety meats like ear, tongue, and stomach are available.

On weekdays, all the usual tacos are available at this Corona stalwart located in a semi-subterranean space where spectacular carnitas are fried and tortillas made right in the front window. Over the weekend, barbacoa is offered by the pound, with a DIY taco kit that includes freshly made corn tortillas, chopped onions and cilantro, lemons or limes, and two kinds of salsa. It’s a feast!

Panzón (“pot bellied”) is the facetious name for a new mezcal bar in Greenpoint serving Mexico City-style drinking snacks. Thus there are chicharrones de harina made from wheat topped with cheese and tajin, a smoky condiment, and machetes, an elongated quesadilla. But there are also tuna tostadas, chorizo gorditas, and some great chicken tinga tacos bulging with chipotle-slathered pulled poultry,

This counter-service taqueria in Greenpoint has earned a following for its suadero and tripe tacos, prepared in the stainless steel vat of stewed meats known as a choricera. Don’t mind the line, which may well stretch to the end of the block at peak hours: These tacos are worth whatever the wait. The tortillas here are smaller than most, making it possible to eat a taco in two to three bites.

The former Downtown Bakery has reopened under a new name, and its roster of breakfast and luncheon tacos, both made on white-corn tortillas in the Pueblan fashion, remains gloriously intact. Note that the wonderful chorizo breakfast taco features Italian sausage rather than Mexican chorizo, as a result of the place’s origins as an Italian bakery.

Opened just before the virus hit town, Taqueria Al Pastor seemed very new and modern among the historic bodega taquerias of Bushwick, from the super graphics on the walls, to the open theater of a kitchen. The al pastor remains one of the city’s lushest, particularly when deposited with pineapple on a volcan, a tortilla turned up at the edges and deep fried.

This swinging new spot in Eastern Bushwick serves tacos with Mexico City flair, which means smaller, thicker tortillas with plenty of filling. If available on the day you visit, the meaty beef cheek barbacoa is particularly recommended.

King of Meat and its cousin El Rey del Pescado both have thoughtful rosters of tacos, and stand within a block of each other — so maybe visit both. King of Meat features some crazy fillings, mainly involving steak, with names like the psycho and the dude, with a particularly nice list of beers.

This long-running Tompkinsville landmark, which took over a pizzeria on Victory Boulevard long ago, is the taqueria closest to the ferry terminal. The tacos are of the overstuffed variety, and extensively braised tongue is the preferred filling, with al pastor and carne enchilada a close second and third. Add Oaxacan cheese or sliced avocado to any taco for a small extra charge, or go for a taco Azteca with cactus and caramelized onions.