Suddenly Tim Ma had skin in the game.
The chef behind Washington-area restaurants Lucky Danger and the shuttered American Son was recently in Austin and tasked with making a simple pork skin chicharrón. “We just could not get it to puff,” he recalled. “We scraped off the fat, dehydrated it, fried it at the right temperature, and it just wouldn’t puff. But then we tried another batch that looked exactly the same, and it puffed up immediately. So we stared at it like, ‘What the hell is going on?’ It’s a whole other world of science. I blame Texas humidity.”
