Ashley Moran and Brandon Slowey started making honey slushies with local fruit, like liliko‘i and pineapple, as a complement to Slowey’s beekeeping. Along the way, they also picked up a passion for sourdough, and now their cheerful North Shore cafe, tucked away in Waialua, also serves sourdough pita sandwiches, pizza, and fantastic liege waffles that often sell out by noon.

This is one of the few Hawaiian restaurants (see here for a definition of what Hawaiian food actually is) owned by native Hawaiians. Charlene and Calvin Hoe bought an actual poi factory in 1971, using it primarily as an art gallery, then began serving food in 2009. Today, it’s also one of the few places that serves fresh pa‘i‘ai, cooked taro pounded with a lava rock pestle on a long wooden board to a mochi-like consistency. You’ll have to call in advance to reserve some, and if you’re lucky, you might catch the Hoes’ son, Liko, pounding it near the outdoor tables. Try the kanaka nui plate, a combination of pretty much everything on the menu, add a side of ho‘io (fiddlehead fern) salad, and finish with the Sweet Lady of Waiahole, warm kulolo (a taro and coconut dessert) topped with a scoop of haupia (coconut) ice cream.

Honolulu loves breakfast, and few places do it better than Over Easy, a warm, happy family operation anyone would be proud to support. Delicate, golden, crispy-edged pancakes are the highlight of sweet dishes, but don’t leave without trying the pig hash with lomi tomatoes and Okinawan sweet potatoes, or the bacon-cabbage broth poured over a bowl of rice and Portuguese sausage. Outside seating and takeout are available.

Saimin, an only-in-Hawai‘i mashup of Chinese-style noodles in a Japanese-style dashi broth, is at its best at Palace Saimin. Here, the menu consists only of saimin, wonton min, udon, and teri beef sticks. The interior, as simple and satisfying as the menu, has hardly changed since the place opened in 1946. If you’re taking out, make sure to get the soup packaged separately from the noodles so they don’t get soggy.

Liliha Bakery’s beloved cases are stocked with mochi donuts, rainbow layer cakes, and (the local favorite) Coco Puffs, a chocolate-pudding filled cream puff topped with butter frosting. But the original Liliha Bakery also happens to double as a legendary diner, serving excellent crisp waffles, butter rolls with nuclear red jelly, and oxtail soup. Though the business now includes five locations, a seat at the counter of the original Liliha on Kuakini Street is still the best move.

One of Honolulu’s most exciting new restaurants, Nami Kaze serves freewheeling brunch during the day and izakaya-style small plates at night. Daytime dishes include teishoku (Japanese set breakfast), honey walnut shrimp waffles, and omelets that are really silky chawanmushi with toppings like mentaiko cream or maitake mushrooms in mornay sauce. After a decade helping other chefs open restaurants, chef/owner Jason Peel is really letting loose. At dinner that means Kona baby abalone done oysters Rockefeller style and ulu (breadfruit) tots with barbecue sauce. Mix and match; it’s all good fun.

The Pig and the Lady is a must-visit spot for its modern Vietnamese flavors. Its famous pho French dip is offered at lunch, while even more playful dishes are on the frequently updated dinner menu, which recently included escargot baked in green curry sauce and scallops over seaweed porridge with dollops of dried aku XO sauce. You can also find the Pig and the Lady’s more traditional noodle soups, rice bowls, and sandwiches at its farmers market stalls.

Chef Robynne Maii was recently awarded a James Beard award — Hawai‘i’s first in almost 20 years — for her restaurant that features great cocktails and a menu that combines French, Italian, Korean, and Hawai‘i influences. Open from lunch through dinner, Fête turns out hits like carbonara with Portuguese sausage and rose veal schnitzel sauced with liliko‘i. Definitely order off the specials menu, which usually showcases Hawai‘i’s seafood and the best produce in season, and don’t miss the house-made rocky road ice cream for dessert. There are a few outdoor tables, and takeout is also available.

Since Morning Glass opened in 2011, plenty of other cafes have sprung up with interiors and menus seemingly designed for the ’gram. Morning Glass has retained its rustic, no-frills look, focusing instead on its coffee and solid baked goods, including a liliko‘i honey biscuit and savory breakfast sandwiches.

Hawaiian-Chinese food is almost a regional cuisine of its own. At this divey karaoke and sports bar (also a genre of its own in Honolulu), you’ll find fine examples like crunchy gau gee (fried dumplings) and cake noodles (noodles pressed together and pan-fried). The menu also includes 8 Fat Fat 8’s own specialties, including salt-and-pepper fried pork chops and the crisp-skinned Fat Fat Chicken.

Bar Māze is the second venture of Justin Park and Tom Park (no relation). Their first, Bar Leather Apron, is still a must-visit for some of the best cocktails in Honolulu, but the food there can be an afterthought. Not so at Bar Māze, where the Parks partnered with chef Ki Chung to create a stunning cocktail-paired tasting menu (you can also request a nonalcoholic pairing, but even the booze version is surprisingly light). On the tasting menu (the only option), Chung brings Korean and Japanese influences to dishes like donabe with wagyu, served ssam-style. The restaurant doesn’t offer substitutions and reservations are required.

One of Honolulu’s most popular breweries, in Kaka‘ako’s brewery corridor, Hana Koa offers an ever-changing tap list, from the staple Rooftop pale ale to the recent Snoop POGG, an imperial kettle sour ale riffing on Hawai‘i’s beloved drink of passionfruit, orange, and guava juices. The ground floor has a lively and open atmosphere, while the second floor hides a more intimate cocktail bar.

Homemade soba is the draw at this Japanese gem. Come for the lunch specials, which include soba topped with Hokkaido uni and ikura, and the battera set: pressed mackerel sushi with soba on the side. Then return for a dinner of hot soba with seared duck and mushrooms.

Torae Torae applies playful creativity to staple izakaya dishes. Take the donburi menu, which offers a standard chirashi as well as a kaisen don, upgraded with amaebi (including their fried heads) and buttery coins of ankimo, monkfish liver known as the foie of the sea. The Gluttony Bowl includes otoro and uni, topped with yamaimo (yam) and a slow-cooked egg. Natto lovers will revel in the stamina don, which combines the gooey fermented beans with equally slippery yamaimo, as well as okra and a raw quail egg.

Ellen Stavro and Javier Flores fold their experience working in pastry and fine dining restaurants in New York, Las Vegas, and San Francisco into exquisite viennoiseries like cream cheese guava danishes and twice-baked black sesame and chocolate croissants. The duo produces an impressive variety, from the constantly changing pastries (the must-try tarts have featured flavors like liliko‘i and mango sticky rice Parisian flan) to naturally leavened breads, such as purple rice sesame sourdough and Japanese milk bread. Find them at the Kaka‘ako farmers market every Saturday and every other Monday at ‘ili‘ili Cash & Carry (skip the line and preorder online from Tuesday to Friday).

This mochi shop has been around since 1953, but recently changed ownership, resulting in new flavors like a purple sweet potato daifuku and yuzu marmalade manju. The classics, such as red bean daifuku and milk-flavored chi chi dango, are still available too. Few other mochi shops anywhere are able to meld the old and new as beautifully and deliciously as Fujiya.

There are newer and brighter shave ice spots offering fresh-made syrups or organic options. Waiola doesn’t have any of that, but everyone still lines up at the original location on Waiola Street for the no-frills nostalgia. The shop offers the best bang for your buck when it comes to shave ice: $3 scores you a large cone or cup with up to three flavors. Plus, Waiola has an enormous selection of flavors. Don’t leave town without trying the li hing mui (salty dried plum), liliko‘i cream, and pickled mango.

This new food court at Honolulu’s open-air mall houses outposts of some of the city’s favorite small eateries, including Musubi Cafe Iyasume, which offers 20-some varieties of freshly made Spam musubi — with ume, avocado, or even unagi. There’s also Ahi & Vegetable, known for its spicy ahi and poke bowls, as well as inexpensive nigiri. The Hokkaido-based chain Brug Bakery offers pillowy soft breads and sweet and savory treats, from curry pan (a doughnut filled with Japanese beef curry) to an pan (a baked bun filled with sweetened azuki paste). You’ll find tables outside, and if you need extra dessert, head around the corner to Palme D’Or Patisserie for exquisite Japanese cakes by the slice.

Honolulu has plenty of excellent izakayas, but Bozu stands apart for its creativity within the izakaya framework of grilled, fried, and raw small plates. You’ll find classic and new preparations side by side on the menu: impeccable sashimi and a raw surf and turf roll of uni, beef, shiso, and yam; a braised pork belly kakuni alongside an American-style beef stew made with tongue and topped with melted cheese. Always order off the specials menu, which might include firefly squid, barely bigger than a thumb, with mustardy miso, or fish and chips Japanese-style: fried flounder and its crispy bones.

Mud Hen Water offers Hawaiʻi-born chef Ed Kenney’s modern interpretation of Hawai‘i food. Known for his work at Town Restaurant and Mahina & Sun’s, Kenney manages to appeal to dining trends while fully respecting Hawaiian ingredients. Standouts include the porchetta rolled with lūʻau and loaded baked bananas with curry butter. Brunch includes a biscuit with mapo gravy and pork sisig, the sizzling Filipino dish, but made with pig’s head. Find cheerful outdoor seating beneath string lights in the courtyard.

One of the hardest reservations to get in town is at this omakase yakitori restaurant, hidden in the corner of a parking lot behind a bank and jiu-jitsu school in the Kaimukī neighborhood. Takashi Ando helmed the grill at Honolulu’s yakitori restaurants for more than two decades before he opened his own place and did away with menus. Here, he presides over a charcoal grill, attending to skewers of chicken cartilage and hearts, bacon-wrapped mochi, and Kaua‘i shrimp. Dinner ends with motsunabe, beef intestines simmered in a clear dashi broth. It’s omakase only and BYOB. Prices average around $60 a person.

As the lines outside Pipeline can attest, people have been hitting the comfort carbs hard during the pandemic. Like the best spots, Pipeline fries its malasadas to order, and you should definitely enjoy one while hot. But Pipeline breaks away from the crowded field with superior shelf life. The malasadas actually remain delicious a day after you pick them up. They’re not too greasy, strike the perfect balance between airy and heft, and come dusted in sugar, coffee, cocoa, or puckeringly sour-sweet li hing powder.

Koko Head Cafe serves some of the best brunch in Honolulu. Chef Lee Anne Wong’s daytime dining spot in charming Kaimukī attracts locals and visitors ordering ambitious riffs on Hawai‘i breakfast staples, like miso-marinated fish with eggs, or “Koko Moko,” Wong’s take on loco moco that includes a beef patty, garlic rice, mushroom gravy, and tempura kimchi. Eater restaurant editor Hillary Dixler Canavan recommends the breakfast congee — tricked out with sausage, cheddar cheese, and croutons — “for a particularly soulful example of the flavor building Wong does best.” The restaurant is currently open for dine-in and takeout.

Located on the side of a residential apartment building, the poke spot from mother-and-daughter team Judy Sakuma and Kim Brug is the place to go for classics. The ‘ahi poke comes with sweet, ginger-spiked shoyu sauce or a mixture of crunchy limu (seaweed), coarse sea salt, and nutty, oily ‘inamona (kukui nuts). Everything is packed to-go, but the fatty chunks of ahi served over hot rice are best eaten immediately at the tables just outside the shop, alongside sashimi, taegu (candied codfish), and boiled peanuts.

Have you heard the commercials? “Next stop, Zippy’s!” Hawaiʻi’s iconic family diner chain has many locations throughout the state serving many purposes. Kids grow up with Zippy’s chili (now sold frozen so parents can ship it to homesick college kids) and Apple Napples (flaky apple turnovers). It’s also a great place for late-night munchies, like the fried chicken with a side of chili-cheese fries. Proper dinner options, like the Zip Min (a deluxe bowl of saimin noodle soup) or the Zip Pac (mahi mahi, fried chicken, Spam, and teriyaki beef over furikake rice), never fail to please.

For a good time, make it Suntory time at Restaurant Suntory in Waikīkī. The restaurant specializes in beautifully prepared teppanyaki, sushi, and washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine). Think: kamameshi that steams in its iron pot tableside and single-serving shabu shabu. Because this is a restaurant by Suntory, there are plenty of whisky highballs made with Hibiki, Yamazaki, or Hakushu (also available served neat, of course).

You have to overcome a lot of skepticism to get locals to pay $20 for katsu when they can get it in a plate lunch for less than $10. But given how difficult it is to score a reservation at Tonkatsu Tamafuji, it appears a lot of people have bashed through that psychological hurdle. Attention to detail shows in the quality of the pork itself, the house-made panko crumbs that fry up into an ethereally crisp crust, and the accompaniments: a bowl of sesame seeds to grind at the table and then spoon into a plummy tonkatsu sauce. If you can’t get a reservation, the tonkatsu holds up surprisingly well for takeout.

One of Honolulu’s most beloved beachside restaurants, just steps from the sand on the quiet end of Waikīkī, was recently refreshed by new ownership of the Kaimana Beach Hotel. Morning views and eggs Benedict are the perennial draw here, in the shade of the 100-year-old hau trees. But it’s also the perfect place to catch the sunset, along with a revamped cocktail menu of modern tropical drinks and dinner dishes including a crisp-fried octopus with miso bearnaise that’s executed with a light touch befitting the outdoor setting.