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An American diner breakfast of French toast, bacon, Cumberland sausage, hash browns, pan-fried egg, and maple syrup at The Electric Cafe
An American diner breakfast at The Electric Cafe
The Electric Cafe/Instagram

South London’s Best Old-School Caffs

Fried breakfasts with a side of wood panelling, antique light fixtures, and time-honoured signs

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An American diner breakfast at The Electric Cafe
| The Electric Cafe/Instagram

Of London’s 32 boroughs, 11 and a half of them sit below the River Thames. As with the rest of the capital, every neighbourhood in south London has its own beautiful little quirks and distinctive places to eat. Although there are plenty of options for breakfast, for those who like their breakfasts fried, there are only really two: regular restaurants that serve fry-ups and places that major on them, which are more affordable and some people call caffs. South London has caffs that have been open for half a century or more, with wood panelling, antique light fixtures and charming, time-honoured signs. Its other old-school caffs are more modern by comparison, with plastic seats installed in the Blair and Thatcher years; they are just as good.

In a city that destroys its old caffs, it’s interesting how they fare in south London. While the area’s most ancient caffs attract fewer tourists than those in more central parts of town, many of these spots remain busy, acting as local landmarks and de facto community centres. In some ways, south London’s caffs have preserved their original function better than those in other parts of the city, as places where ordinary people can sit down, escape the elements and eat inexpensive, comforting food.

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Maries Cafe

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Marie’s has all the hallmarks of a post-war Britalian caff — striking signage, a Vitrolite ceiling, a Formica-topped cabinet — mainly because it used to be one. But when the place changed hands in the 1980s and a new family took over, it gained another string to its bow: a range of homely Thai soups, curries and noodle dishes, available for the same affordable price as its fry-ups. 

Even the cooked breakfasts at Marie’s are Thai-inflected, with eggs as crispy and frilly-edged as the khai dow at Plaza Khao Gaeng. Standout dishes include the place’s massaman and yellow curries, which are dramatic, fragrant plates of food, with peeled potatoes smaller than most grapes. The restaurant draws a weekday lunchtime crowd of office workers and high-vis types alike, then gets a lot busier in the evenings, when an expanded menu is served and diners can bring their own booze. To dodge the crowds, visit earlier in the day, or pop in for a steadying meal before a Waterloo train journey.

Curry and rice at Marie’s cafe
Standout dishes at Marie’s include the massaman and yellow curries, which are dramatic and fragrant plates of food.
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

H's Cafe.

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Tucked away beneath the shadow of Rotherhithe Tunnel and ​​St Olav’s Norwegian church, H’s Cafe serves bacon rolls that rank among the city’s best: where fat mixes with sauce to form a delicious, mouth-coating emulsion; where the crusty rolls have the chewiness of great croissants and the crackly exterior of a crème brûlée.

The place attracts a steady stream of solo diners, who make good use of the garden area and greet staff by name. Inside, it’s all chalkboard menu, faded laminated printouts and framed pictures of various Millwall squads. It’s a stripped-back caff, with a similar shack-like feel to Frank’s Sandwich Bar in West Kensington, where the counter doubles as an open kitchen. It’s a basic room, where food is fried and eaten.

A picture of the shopfront of H’s Cafe
H’s Cafe is tucked away beneath the shadow of Rotherhithe Tunnel and ​​St Olav’s Norwegian church
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Mary's Cafe

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Beyond Burgess Park, where Camberwell dissolves into Walworth, there’s a few historical places where people hang out: a 1930s pub, a century-old pie and mash shop, and Mary’s Cafe, which opened four years before man landed on the moon. The place has an eclectic, old-fashioned menu, with unusual options like duck eggs, spotted dick, and an Irish breakfast, which includes white pudding and excludes baked beans. Like a Scottish breakfast, the Irish at Mary’s is a reminder that fried breakfasts are really just a whole lot of pork, fried and arranged on a plate.

It’s worth eating all that pork at Mary’s because of the quality of its meat. The white pudding is a hockey puck of oaty, bloodless fat with a hint of offal; the sausages are real too — plump, herb-speckled things like the ones at E Pellicci and Regency Cafe. At lunchtime, the steak and kidney pie comes softened beneath a puddle of gravy, its pastry casing filled to the brim with tender chunks of beef.

A breakfast fry-up at Mary’s Cafe
The place has an eclectic, old-fashioned menu, and an Irish breakfast, which includes white pudding and excludes baked beans
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Rock Steady Eddie's London

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The best thing about Rock Steady Eddie’s is its proprietor Salih Salih, who has worked here since his family opened the place in 1989. Sal’s been immortalised in a magnificent painting by the artist Ed Gray, who depicts the man as he is: a patron saint of inexpensive eating places, collecting plates and taking care of customers in his brimless hat and dentist-like white coat. The place is packed with enough bric-a-brac to fill an antiques market. Each item centres around the 1950s, as Sal and his brother were big Happy Days fans growing up. There’s vintage ads, posters, ceiling fans, novelty clocks and random bits of rare and unusual Elvis memorabilia.

Here, the basics are safe bets, like the £5.40 fry-up, which conceals a fried slice beneath its egg like a surprise grease bomb. The prices suit the local student population and the people who wander in from the pubs, betting shops and psychiatric hospital nearby. It may be Camberwell’s most affordable restaurant.

Inside Rock Steady Eddie’s caff, its booths, and vinatge ads and posters on the walls.
Rock Steady Eddie’s is packed with enough bric-a-brac to fill an antiques market.
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Something Fishy

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Something Fishy is a peculiar kind of chip shop, in that it opens at 9 a.m., closes before dinner, and is all about eating in. Interestingly, this sit-down chippy’s menu also extends well beyond traditional battered fish and deep-fried potato fare, to include fry-ups, sandwiches, and even pie and mash. So Something Fishy is an all-purpose, Swiss Army knife of a restaurant, which caters to all the people visiting and working in Lewisham Market. Since it’s so affordable, Something Fishy is a place where customers should push the boat out. Don’t settle for a hunk of fish and a mountain of chips; get the gravy, some gherkins, a pot of curry sauce, a battered sausage, and a crunchy disc of cod roe.

If Rolando Pujol, a nostalgia obsessive who unearths fossils of the American roadside, were to come to London, he’d probably make a beeline for Bexleyheath. Why? Because it’s home to a beautiful anomaly, the only Wimpy in the capital spared a remodelling job, which has kept its remarkable 1990s interior intact. Counterintuitively, Wimpy Bexleyheath also feels more loved than its 19 refurbished cousins, which can be found in places like Streatham, Bermondsey and Watney Market. The restaurant occupies an extraordinary, mirror-filled room, with cushioned fixed seating and dramatic moulded plastic booths, with the same colour scheme as the opening sequence of Saved by the Bell. The staff are friendly and attentive too, offering table service with a smile.

Wimpy burgers are basically burger van burgers, mass-produced versions of the ones at football matches. So eating at a Wimpy is a uniquely un-American experience, in contrast to McDonald’s and Burger King, with vinegar on every table and burger sauce always close at hand; chips are chips, not “fries”. Fascinatingly, this specific Wimpy has regulars too: on weekday evenings, groups of people chat over soft drinks, as if they’re at the pub.

The Electric Cafe

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The Electric Cafe is south London’s best caff. It’s so old that its name evokes a time when electricity was a novelty, something worth showing off. The place is a sepia photograph, which provides a glimpse into a forgotten interwar Britain, where we ate out in simple dining rooms, with handwritten menus, creaky wooden chairs and W. M. Still & Son water boilers.

The Tsoukkas family has been running The Electric Cafe since the 1970s and like Knight’s Fish Bar nearby, another remnant of south London’s Greek Cypriot community, the hand-cut chips here are simultaneously soft, fatty, and crunchy. There’s an elegance to the fry-ups too — a rarity in caffs — proving that there can be lightness and refinement in bubble and squeak. For lunchtime visitors, it’s worth trying the gammon, a delicious bacon frisbee which goes perfectly with a pile of green peas and golden potato shards. Stav personally recommends the pies.

A picture of the shopfront of The Electric Cafe.
The Tsoukkas family has been running The Electric Cafe since the 1970s.
The Electric Cafe/Instagram

Tony’s Lunchbox

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A stone’s throw from Anerley Station, between Crystal Palace and Penge, is one of London’s last great sandwich caffs. It’s a homely, hole-in-the-wall of a place — no bigger than a phone box really, with a few stools to sit on, where visitors can set the world to rights with the place’s affable proprietor. Unusually for a caff, the owner is a Frenchman, who took over in the early 2000s, a decade after it opened.

Like Randolfi in Bow, it pays to order something old-fashioned at Tony’s Lunchbox, such as the corned beef, which comes in thick, generous slabs, sliced from a crumbly, fat-speckled block. The place’s ageing letter board displays a greatest hits of anachronistic sandwich fillings, like “ocean stix” and liver sausage, all with prices hovering around the £3 mark. The day’s specials — such as pork loin and spicy meatballs — sit like homespun potluck dishes behind the curved glass counter, wrapped in cling film and labelled with handwritten Post-its. 

By virtue of being a retired Spudulike, this caff may be one of the oldest in Kingston, with its current owners suggesting it could be more than 50 years old. But the interior has been mostly refurbished, so only fragments of this oldness remain. Still, those remnants are fascinating: its Blodgett potato oven and lightly serifed green signage are particularly striking, as are the beautifully dated, backlit photographs behind the counter. Jacket potato-wise, go for classics like tuna and cheese or cheese and beans, which the place’s proprietor confirms are his most popular. But visitors will want for nothing, with no less than 30 different baked potato fillings on offer, ranging from cottage cheese to chili con carne.

Maries Cafe

Marie’s has all the hallmarks of a post-war Britalian caff — striking signage, a Vitrolite ceiling, a Formica-topped cabinet — mainly because it used to be one. But when the place changed hands in the 1980s and a new family took over, it gained another string to its bow: a range of homely Thai soups, curries and noodle dishes, available for the same affordable price as its fry-ups. 

Even the cooked breakfasts at Marie’s are Thai-inflected, with eggs as crispy and frilly-edged as the khai dow at Plaza Khao Gaeng. Standout dishes include the place’s massaman and yellow curries, which are dramatic, fragrant plates of food, with peeled potatoes smaller than most grapes. The restaurant draws a weekday lunchtime crowd of office workers and high-vis types alike, then gets a lot busier in the evenings, when an expanded menu is served and diners can bring their own booze. To dodge the crowds, visit earlier in the day, or pop in for a steadying meal before a Waterloo train journey.

Curry and rice at Marie’s cafe
Standout dishes at Marie’s include the massaman and yellow curries, which are dramatic and fragrant plates of food.
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

H's Cafe.

Tucked away beneath the shadow of Rotherhithe Tunnel and ​​St Olav’s Norwegian church, H’s Cafe serves bacon rolls that rank among the city’s best: where fat mixes with sauce to form a delicious, mouth-coating emulsion; where the crusty rolls have the chewiness of great croissants and the crackly exterior of a crème brûlée.

The place attracts a steady stream of solo diners, who make good use of the garden area and greet staff by name. Inside, it’s all chalkboard menu, faded laminated printouts and framed pictures of various Millwall squads. It’s a stripped-back caff, with a similar shack-like feel to Frank’s Sandwich Bar in West Kensington, where the counter doubles as an open kitchen. It’s a basic room, where food is fried and eaten.

A picture of the shopfront of H’s Cafe
H’s Cafe is tucked away beneath the shadow of Rotherhithe Tunnel and ​​St Olav’s Norwegian church
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Mary's Cafe

Beyond Burgess Park, where Camberwell dissolves into Walworth, there’s a few historical places where people hang out: a 1930s pub, a century-old pie and mash shop, and Mary’s Cafe, which opened four years before man landed on the moon. The place has an eclectic, old-fashioned menu, with unusual options like duck eggs, spotted dick, and an Irish breakfast, which includes white pudding and excludes baked beans. Like a Scottish breakfast, the Irish at Mary’s is a reminder that fried breakfasts are really just a whole lot of pork, fried and arranged on a plate.

It’s worth eating all that pork at Mary’s because of the quality of its meat. The white pudding is a hockey puck of oaty, bloodless fat with a hint of offal; the sausages are real too — plump, herb-speckled things like the ones at E Pellicci and Regency Cafe. At lunchtime, the steak and kidney pie comes softened beneath a puddle of gravy, its pastry casing filled to the brim with tender chunks of beef.

A breakfast fry-up at Mary’s Cafe
The place has an eclectic, old-fashioned menu, and an Irish breakfast, which includes white pudding and excludes baked beans
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Rock Steady Eddie's London

The best thing about Rock Steady Eddie’s is its proprietor Salih Salih, who has worked here since his family opened the place in 1989. Sal’s been immortalised in a magnificent painting by the artist Ed Gray, who depicts the man as he is: a patron saint of inexpensive eating places, collecting plates and taking care of customers in his brimless hat and dentist-like white coat. The place is packed with enough bric-a-brac to fill an antiques market. Each item centres around the 1950s, as Sal and his brother were big Happy Days fans growing up. There’s vintage ads, posters, ceiling fans, novelty clocks and random bits of rare and unusual Elvis memorabilia.

Here, the basics are safe bets, like the £5.40 fry-up, which conceals a fried slice beneath its egg like a surprise grease bomb. The prices suit the local student population and the people who wander in from the pubs, betting shops and psychiatric hospital nearby. It may be Camberwell’s most affordable restaurant.

Inside Rock Steady Eddie’s caff, its booths, and vinatge ads and posters on the walls.
Rock Steady Eddie’s is packed with enough bric-a-brac to fill an antiques market.
caffs_not_cafes/Instagram

Something Fishy

Something Fishy is a peculiar kind of chip shop, in that it opens at 9 a.m., closes before dinner, and is all about eating in. Interestingly, this sit-down chippy’s menu also extends well beyond traditional battered fish and deep-fried potato fare, to include fry-ups, sandwiches, and even pie and mash. So Something Fishy is an all-purpose, Swiss Army knife of a restaurant, which caters to all the people visiting and working in Lewisham Market. Since it’s so affordable, Something Fishy is a place where customers should push the boat out. Don’t settle for a hunk of fish and a mountain of chips; get the gravy, some gherkins, a pot of curry sauce, a battered sausage, and a crunchy disc of cod roe.

Wimpy

If Rolando Pujol, a nostalgia obsessive who unearths fossils of the American roadside, were to come to London, he’d probably make a beeline for Bexleyheath. Why? Because it’s home to a beautiful anomaly, the only Wimpy in the capital spared a remodelling job, which has kept its remarkable 1990s interior intact. Counterintuitively, Wimpy Bexleyheath also feels more loved than its 19 refurbished cousins, which can be found in places like Streatham, Bermondsey and Watney Market. The restaurant occupies an extraordinary, mirror-filled room, with cushioned fixed seating and dramatic moulded plastic booths, with the same colour scheme as the opening sequence of Saved by the Bell. The staff are friendly and attentive too, offering table service with a smile.

Wimpy burgers are basically burger van burgers, mass-produced versions of the ones at football matches. So eating at a Wimpy is a uniquely un-American experience, in contrast to McDonald’s and Burger King, with vinegar on every table and burger sauce always close at hand; chips are chips, not “fries”. Fascinatingly, this specific Wimpy has regulars too: on weekday evenings, groups of people chat over soft drinks, as if they’re at the pub.

The Electric Cafe

The Electric Cafe is south London’s best caff. It’s so old that its name evokes a time when electricity was a novelty, something worth showing off. The place is a sepia photograph, which provides a glimpse into a forgotten interwar Britain, where we ate out in simple dining rooms, with handwritten menus, creaky wooden chairs and W. M. Still & Son water boilers.

The Tsoukkas family has been running The Electric Cafe since the 1970s and like Knight’s Fish Bar nearby, another remnant of south London’s Greek Cypriot community, the hand-cut chips here are simultaneously soft, fatty, and crunchy. There’s an elegance to the fry-ups too — a rarity in caffs — proving that there can be lightness and refinement in bubble and squeak. For lunchtime visitors, it’s worth trying the gammon, a delicious bacon frisbee which goes perfectly with a pile of green peas and golden potato shards. Stav personally recommends the pies.

A picture of the shopfront of The Electric Cafe.
The Tsoukkas family has been running The Electric Cafe since the 1970s.
The Electric Cafe/Instagram

Tony’s Lunchbox

A stone’s throw from Anerley Station, between Crystal Palace and Penge, is one of London’s last great sandwich caffs. It’s a homely, hole-in-the-wall of a place — no bigger than a phone box really, with a few stools to sit on, where visitors can set the world to rights with the place’s affable proprietor. Unusually for a caff, the owner is a Frenchman, who took over in the early 2000s, a decade after it opened.

Like Randolfi in Bow, it pays to order something old-fashioned at Tony’s Lunchbox, such as the corned beef, which comes in thick, generous slabs, sliced from a crumbly, fat-speckled block. The place’s ageing letter board displays a greatest hits of anachronistic sandwich fillings, like “ocean stix” and liver sausage, all with prices hovering around the £3 mark. The day’s specials — such as pork loin and spicy meatballs — sit like homespun potluck dishes behind the curved glass counter, wrapped in cling film and labelled with handwritten Post-its. 

Spuds

By virtue of being a retired Spudulike, this caff may be one of the oldest in Kingston, with its current owners suggesting it could be more than 50 years old. But the interior has been mostly refurbished, so only fragments of this oldness remain. Still, those remnants are fascinating: its Blodgett potato oven and lightly serifed green signage are particularly striking, as are the beautifully dated, backlit photographs behind the counter. Jacket potato-wise, go for classics like tuna and cheese or cheese and beans, which the place’s proprietor confirms are his most popular. But visitors will want for nothing, with no less than 30 different baked potato fillings on offer, ranging from cottage cheese to chili con carne.