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Doubles at Roti Joupa
The doubles at Roti Joupa.
Michaël Protin/Eater London

The Hottest New Restaurants in London, January 2023

Where to eat in the capital right now

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The doubles at Roti Joupa.
| Michaël Protin/Eater London

More often than not, readers, friends and family of Eater have one question: Where should I eat right now? Restaurant obsessives want to know what's new, what's hot, which favourite chef just launched their hyped new spot: the “it” places of the moment.

Here’s where to find the heat in London as frosts descend for January.

Added January 2023: Roti Joupa Clapham Junction, Bouchon Racine

Added December 2022: Straker’s

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Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.

All Kaps at Papo’s Bagels

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London has seen much violence against America’s regional pizza vernacular — just ask anyone who has ever been lured in by the promise of “Detroit-style” anywhere in the city and run away crying afterwards. But All Kaps is a pleasing reversal to that trend, where Mid-Atlantic via Sicily tomato pie is puffed and pillowy, and the thinner crust slices pass the bend test. Best of all, the riffy, improvisational whole pizzas, which may be topped with, for example, teriyaki chicken; or duck confit, leek, and cornichons, are done with aplomb.

This new wine bar and restaurant in Newington Green brings two of the most respected pourers in the city — Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts — back to the bar, after leaving P. Franco and Bright respectively to set up an importer. Joined by George Jephson’s architecturally marvellous paté en croute, and former St. John, Flor, and Auberge de Chassinolles chef Jamie Smart’s soigné cooking, it’s a wonderful maturation for London’s natural wine scene.

Honey & Co. Bloomsbury

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After vacating their cosy premises on Warren Street in the spring, Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer have reimagined Honey & Co’s flagship — a similarly warm, welcoming. now-larger cafe-dining room on Lamb’s Conduit Street. Smart and imaginative dishes, like a mackerel salad with potato, pickled celery, harissa, and preserved lemon; or a crisped lamb shoulder with crushed fresh peas, rocket, mint, feta, and urfa butter demonstrate both chef’s continued commitment to tradition, innovation, and deliciousness. Don’t sleep on first-rate freshly baked pita and a spectacular range of cakes and sweet, spiced bakes.

St. John Marylebone

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The old ones are the best, some say. St. John — with institutions in Smithfield and Spitalfields — remains among London’s very best restaurants, for its inimitable sense of identity and style as much as what it puts on plates or in glasses. The newest member of the family is now open in Marylebone and exists in the same utilitarian image — a sleek dining room of zinc bars and white washed walls where guests can order dishes like fried sea bass with braised fennel; deep-fried lozenges of Welsh rarebit “croquettes”; onion soup; cold roast mallard; barley, mushrooms, and Spenwood; and whiskey and shortbread. A menu for autumns and winters, and a restaurant for all seasons.

Crisp Pizza at The Chancellors

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A new style of pizza is having a bit of a moment in London: Closer relatives to the American slice-joint style “pies” — necessarily different (drier, and, well, crispier) than the sloppier, more saucy Neapolitan version which has dominated the London pizza scene for over a decade — are here and hyped. The aptly named Crisp Pizza (for Crisp street as well as the base and crust, presumably) is serving this style, on the well done side (don’t tell him), with a range of classic toppings, like pepperoni with mozzarella and tomato; or fennel sausage, spinach, garlic, mushrooms, chilli flakes, lemon and Burrata, Wednesday through to Saturday (evenings) and Sunday 1 p.m. until 9 p.m. at the Chancellors pub, W6.

Evernight

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Ex-Laughing Heart chef, Lynus Lim is joined by Two Lights’s Chase Lovecky at this ambitious Japanese restaurant in the shadow of the American embassy at the Nine Elms development. It calls itself a “modern izakaya,” owing to its use of a grill and service of skewers, but this is a fine-dining restaurant more than it is a pub, modern or not. Yet, there is an informality to the format of a menu exhibiting a tidy edit from across the full gambit of Japanese cuisine: Torbay shrimp futomaki; chawanmushi of smoked eel and cep; chicken hearts and shiso; crab dumpling, with suimono, and cockles.

Straker’s

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Thomas Straker is probably most widely known for his ability to turn compound butters into fine quenelles of content on TikTok, but before all that he was a chef at the likes of the Ledbury and Dinner by Heston. He’s now a nearish neighbour to the former on Golborne Road, with an absolutely thronged restaurant of his own, serving a rotating cast of Now That’s What I Call Small Plates pop classics.

Roti Joupa Clapham Junction

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The return of a Trinidadian Clapham institution is good reason to celebrate a new year, and Roti Joupa’s arrival on Grant Road bears some fanfare. All of its staples are back, with the roti, buss up shut, macaroni pie with tamarind, and formidable doubles having lost none of their sheen.

Bouchon Racine at The Three Compasses

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Renowned chef Henry Harris has finally landed his revival of Racine, the Knightsbridge restaurant that was the doyen of London lunches in the early 2000s. Above the Three Compasses pub in Farringdon, and in partnership with restaurateur Dave Strauss, it’s an exercise in Gallic richness and heft. Look out for Harris’s famed rabbit with bacon and mustard sauce; a doozy of a crème caramel; and a veal chop with Roquefort butter. Animal fats are in for 2023.

All Kaps at Papo’s Bagels

London has seen much violence against America’s regional pizza vernacular — just ask anyone who has ever been lured in by the promise of “Detroit-style” anywhere in the city and run away crying afterwards. But All Kaps is a pleasing reversal to that trend, where Mid-Atlantic via Sicily tomato pie is puffed and pillowy, and the thinner crust slices pass the bend test. Best of all, the riffy, improvisational whole pizzas, which may be topped with, for example, teriyaki chicken; or duck confit, leek, and cornichons, are done with aplomb.

Cadet

This new wine bar and restaurant in Newington Green brings two of the most respected pourers in the city — Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts — back to the bar, after leaving P. Franco and Bright respectively to set up an importer. Joined by George Jephson’s architecturally marvellous paté en croute, and former St. John, Flor, and Auberge de Chassinolles chef Jamie Smart’s soigné cooking, it’s a wonderful maturation for London’s natural wine scene.

Honey & Co. Bloomsbury

After vacating their cosy premises on Warren Street in the spring, Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer have reimagined Honey & Co’s flagship — a similarly warm, welcoming. now-larger cafe-dining room on Lamb’s Conduit Street. Smart and imaginative dishes, like a mackerel salad with potato, pickled celery, harissa, and preserved lemon; or a crisped lamb shoulder with crushed fresh peas, rocket, mint, feta, and urfa butter demonstrate both chef’s continued commitment to tradition, innovation, and deliciousness. Don’t sleep on first-rate freshly baked pita and a spectacular range of cakes and sweet, spiced bakes.

St. John Marylebone

The old ones are the best, some say. St. John — with institutions in Smithfield and Spitalfields — remains among London’s very best restaurants, for its inimitable sense of identity and style as much as what it puts on plates or in glasses. The newest member of the family is now open in Marylebone and exists in the same utilitarian image — a sleek dining room of zinc bars and white washed walls where guests can order dishes like fried sea bass with braised fennel; deep-fried lozenges of Welsh rarebit “croquettes”; onion soup; cold roast mallard; barley, mushrooms, and Spenwood; and whiskey and shortbread. A menu for autumns and winters, and a restaurant for all seasons.

Crisp Pizza at The Chancellors

A new style of pizza is having a bit of a moment in London: Closer relatives to the American slice-joint style “pies” — necessarily different (drier, and, well, crispier) than the sloppier, more saucy Neapolitan version which has dominated the London pizza scene for over a decade — are here and hyped. The aptly named Crisp Pizza (for Crisp street as well as the base and crust, presumably) is serving this style, on the well done side (don’t tell him), with a range of classic toppings, like pepperoni with mozzarella and tomato; or fennel sausage, spinach, garlic, mushrooms, chilli flakes, lemon and Burrata, Wednesday through to Saturday (evenings) and Sunday 1 p.m. until 9 p.m. at the Chancellors pub, W6.

Evernight

Ex-Laughing Heart chef, Lynus Lim is joined by Two Lights’s Chase Lovecky at this ambitious Japanese restaurant in the shadow of the American embassy at the Nine Elms development. It calls itself a “modern izakaya,” owing to its use of a grill and service of skewers, but this is a fine-dining restaurant more than it is a pub, modern or not. Yet, there is an informality to the format of a menu exhibiting a tidy edit from across the full gambit of Japanese cuisine: Torbay shrimp futomaki; chawanmushi of smoked eel and cep; chicken hearts and shiso; crab dumpling, with suimono, and cockles.

Straker’s

Thomas Straker is probably most widely known for his ability to turn compound butters into fine quenelles of content on TikTok, but before all that he was a chef at the likes of the Ledbury and Dinner by Heston. He’s now a nearish neighbour to the former on Golborne Road, with an absolutely thronged restaurant of his own, serving a rotating cast of Now That’s What I Call Small Plates pop classics.

Roti Joupa Clapham Junction

The return of a Trinidadian Clapham institution is good reason to celebrate a new year, and Roti Joupa’s arrival on Grant Road bears some fanfare. All of its staples are back, with the roti, buss up shut, macaroni pie with tamarind, and formidable doubles having lost none of their sheen.

Bouchon Racine at The Three Compasses

Renowned chef Henry Harris has finally landed his revival of Racine, the Knightsbridge restaurant that was the doyen of London lunches in the early 2000s. Above the Three Compasses pub in Farringdon, and in partnership with restaurateur Dave Strauss, it’s an exercise in Gallic richness and heft. Look out for Harris’s famed rabbit with bacon and mustard sauce; a doozy of a crème caramel; and a veal chop with Roquefort butter. Animal fats are in for 2023.