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Helen Rosner

The 38 Essential Restaurants in Paris

Classic boeuf bourguignon at a century-old bistro, chicken yassa and other West Africa flavors at the Hotel Ritz, tofu croquettes at the city’s hottest vegan restaurant, and more of Paris’s best meals right now

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Paris has reclaimed its status as one of the world’s favorite cities to eat. The French capital is bustling with a brilliant constellation of restaurants these days, including a bevy of openings that show off how deliciously cosmopolitan it’s become: Menkicchi is maybe the best ramen shop in town, while young French Malian chef Mory Sacko cooks stunningly original dishes at Mosuke. Plus there’s an inventive and diverse array of casual dining options, like the affordable Café du Coin, excellent Montmartre bistro Le Maquis, and Parcelles, an outstanding bistrot a vins in the Marais. There’s also been a renaissance of Paris’s long-established gastronomic landscape, with traditional bistros, brasseries, and stylish restaurants serving classic French cooking made famous by chef Auguste Escoffier.

Updated, January 2024:

A new generation of young chefs bristling with talent are delighting visitors and locals with intriguing new takes on contemporary French bistro cooking, creating meals that are seasonal, local, and sustainable. People like Clément Vergeat at Tracé and Maxime Bouttier at Géosmine are bringing the precision and technical excellence of haute cuisine to this more casual style of cooking, blurring the boundary between bistros and fine dining. Vegetables play an ever larger role on the menus of these restaurants, where seafood is often favored over meat as well.

The still very good Eels makes way for the outstanding Tracé, which has become the talk of the town, and Géosmine replaces Les Parisiennes to showcase the rising star of Bouttier.

We update this list quarterly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing Paris dining scene. The guide is organized by arrondissement, spiraling out from the First.

Alexander Lobrano is a Paris restaurant expert and author of Hungry for Paris, Hungry for France, and his gastronomic coming-of-age story My Place at the Table. He blogs about restaurants and writes often for the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Saveur, and other publications.

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Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.

Tracé Restaurant

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Located near the Comedie Francaise in the heart of Paris, chef Clément Vergeat’s highly praised new restaurant generates a low-lit, monastic atmosphere with a minimalist decor of gray chairs and bare wood tables. The small, quiet space creates a setting that allows you to concentrate on the intricate, original, and very subtle dishes that compose the chef’s regularly changing tasting menu. The two memorable dishes stuck out from a recent meal: The first was a raw langoustine steamed in seaweed vapor and topped with a nearly transparent ribbon of squid cured to resemble the Italian fatback known as Lardo di Colonnata. The othe was roasted pigeon with fermented strawberry puree, turnips, beets, and other winter vegetables. Located in the First Arrondissement.

L'Espadon

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Young chef Eugénie Béziat’s debut as the new chef of Espadon, the Hotel Ritz’s headliner restaurant, represented a daring departure from the conventions of luxury hotel restaurants in Paris. Instead of foie gras and truffles, Béziat’s very personal cooking references the flavors and produce she knew from her childhood in West Africa even as she shows off her supreme mastery of French culinary technique. The chef’s signature dish is her chicken yassa, which combines French and Senegalese flavors in an heirloom fowl from Houdan in the Yvelines. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A large roast chicken in a pan with herbs and flowers.
Chicken yassa.
Emanuela Cino

Menkicchi

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Right in the heart of the city, midway between the Opera Garnier and the Musee du Louvre, you’ll find a cluster of Japanese and other Asian restaurants along the Rue Sainte-Anne and adjoining streets. Stop by the very popular Menkicchi for some gyoza and a bowl of some of the city’s best ramen. The regulars love the Le Speciale ramen, which comes with handmade noodles in rich pork bouillon, a marinated egg, a slice of pork breast, and seaweed. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A bowl of ramen topped with slices of pork, egg, and scallion, beside a plate of gyoza with dipping sauce.
Ramen and gyoza.
Menkicchi

Juveniles

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This friendly wine bar and bistro is the perfect place to find really good French comfort food and a great bottle of wine without the hassle of booking three months in advance. Scottish wine merchant and longtime Paris expat Tim Johnston founded the restaurant, which is now run by his daughter Margaux and her French boyfriend, Romain Roudeau. With Roudeau in the kitchen and the younger Johnston running the dining room, the pair orchestrate a Gallic gastronomic experience that lives up to their motto: “We always deliver the goods.” The menu follows the seasons, but the kitchen displays its style with dishes like celery soup with cockles, chives with whipped cream, sauteed wild mushroom with egg yolk and prosciutto cream, duckling filet with Swiss chard and chestnuts, and scallops with leek, baby potatoes, and parsley cream. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A cozy dining room, with guests seated at small tables and bottles of wine along the walls.
The dining room at Juveniles.
Juveniles

Granite

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Hidden on a small side street on the edge of Les Halles in the heart of Paris, this intimate restaurant sports contemporary decor of cutout wooden paneling and an open kitchen. It’s become one of the most sought-after reservations in the city for the superb contemporary French cooking of young chef Thomas Meyer, the former sous chef to Anne-Sophie Pic at her three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Valence. Meyer presents his cooking in a tasting-menu format that showcases his perfectly tuned creativity, love of fresh seasonal produce, and culinary loyalty to his native Jura in the east of France. The menus evolve regularly, but standouts of a recent meal included a grilled cepe mushroom with meadowsweet-flavored sabayon and a sauce of deeply reduced mushroom jus and white miso; sea bream with kale in Granny Smith apple juice with a gelee of lovage; roast pigeon in a sauce of its own gizzards with green cardamom and citrus; and an intriguing dessert of rice pudding wrapped in rice roll with mirabelle plums stewed with vin jaune. Located in the First Arrondissement.

White fish fillet in a light colored broth in a gray bowl with crimped edges. On top of the fish are pieces of fried skin, leaves and flowers for garnish.
Pike perch, sparkling apple and colander broth, citrus leaves and lovage oil.
Paul Stefanaggi

Au Pied de Cochon

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Channel your inner Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern by ordering the Tentation de Saint-Antoine (the Temptation of Saint Anthony), served at this famous brasserie in Les Halles that’s been open nonstop — 24/7 — since it opened in 1947. Saint Anthony is the patron saint of charcutiers, and this plate includes a muzzle, ears, breaded pig’s foot, and a tail with lashings of bearnaise sauce. This lively place satisfies less assertively carnivore appetites, too, with trays of oysters and other shellfish, and dishes like its famous onion soup and beautifully made sole meuniere. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A roasted pig’s foot on a plate beside a small pile of fries, cabbage garnish, and a boat of sauce.
Pig’s foot at Au Pied de Cochon.
Au Pied de Cochon / Facebook

La Bourse et la Vie

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Chef Daniel Rose’s second Paris restaurant has become one of the city’s best bistros. He delivers superb versions of the rock-of-ages French dishes that people yearn to eat. His superb foie gras de canard comes to the table perched on a fresh artichoke heart with a dribble of aspic-like shallot vinaigrette on the side, a brilliant detail. Don’t miss the collier d’agneau provencal (braised lamb neck Provençal style) either. Located in the Second Arrondissement.

From above, a plate of sliced stake with fork and knife beside a separate plate of thick-cut fries.
Steak frites at La Bourse et La Vie.
La Bourse et La Vie/Facebook

Parcelles

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From the moment it opened in May, 2021, this bistrots a vins in the Marais has been packed to the gills by a crowd who love proprietaire Sarah Michielsen’s hospitality, sommelier Bastin Fidelin’s wine list, and the delicious cosmopolitan modern bistro cooking of chef Julien Chevallier. The chalkboard menu evolves constantly but runs to dishes like baby clams steamed with herbs and shallots in white wine, vitello tonnato, braised beef cheek in breadcrumbs with a beef jus and baby vegetables, and tiramisu with toasted hazelnuts. This stylish comfort food is exactly what Paris is hungry for right now, especially paired with charming service and a great selection of wines by the glass. Located in the Third Arrondissement.

A green restaurant exterior with large windows looking in on rows of bottles.
Outside Parcelles.
Parcelle

L'Épicerie du Breizh Café

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Brittany-born Bertrand Larcher’s brilliant creperies are found everywhere from Cancale to Tokyo. In Paris, Larcher’s kitchens star first-rate Breton produce, and his outpost in the Marais is a terrific choice for a meal of galettes and crepes. Go with a smoked herring- and potato-filled galette, then tuck into a matcha and white chocolate mousse-filled crepe garnished with strawberries. There are five other addresses in Paris, so check the website for the one nearest you. Located in the Third Arrondissement.

A crepe filled with fried egg and meat.
Breizh Café crêpe.
Meghan McCarron

Oktobre

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Young chef Martin Maumet has created one of the best restaurants on the Left Bank with his nervy, vivid, and inventive French cooking. A meal in the minimalist, gallery-like space begins with an assortment of hors d’oeuvres and then segues into a suite of Asian-accented contemporary French dishes that showcase vegetables and seafood. The menu evolves constantly, but options might include Sardinian gnocchi with mussels in herb-garnished shellfish bouillon, free-range heirloom chicken with carrots, and Iberian pork with roasted root vegetables and chimichurri sauce. Desserts are often made with vegetables, as in the butternut squash ice cream with chestnuts, pistachios, and yuzu. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

Huîtrerie Régis

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This minuscule, white-painted, no-reservations raw bar in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a pearl, and it serves the best bivalves in Paris. The owners get them shipped daily from pedigreed producers in the Marennes d’Oléron, Normandy, and Brittany on France’s Atlantic coast. Start with some smoked scallops, tuck into a dozen oysters, and finish up with the runny chocolate tart. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

From above, a large dish of shucked oysters, with bright shrimp and lemon wedges in the center
A plateau at l’Huîtrerie Régis.
Huitrerie Regis/Facebook

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

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With its lace curtains, cut-glass room dividers, and bentwood chairs, this century-old bistro is why you put up with all those terrible hours in economy class to get to Paris. The boeuf bourguignon is the best in the city. The dish is a testament to Gallic genius, calling for slowly simmering meat to create a flavor-rich sauce from the juices. You must book in advance, and don’t miss the Grand Marnier souffle for dessert either. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

A chef spoons sauce over a steak on a prep table in a kitchen.
Chef Marc Amory prepares a Tournedos Rossini during lunch service at Joséphine Chez Dumonet.
Pete Kiehart

Arnaud Nicolas

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With excellent handmade pates, sausages, and terrines, award-winning charcutier and chef Arnaud Nicolas has revived an ancient branch of French gastronomy. The space, on a leafy avenue in the silk-stocking Seventh Arrondissement, is decorated with exposed stone walls, a beamed ceiling, and battleship-gray moldings. Roasts and meat pies, Gallic pleasures that date back at least to the Middle Ages, figure as first courses, before an evolving menu filled with seasonal produce. Nicolas shows off his style with turbot cooked with cep mushrooms, salmon koulibiak for two, beef cheek braised with carrots in red wine, veal sweetbreads with girolles mushrooms, and a luscious chocolate souffle. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

A chef places thick cuts of lobster in a bed of other ingredients on a mostly clean white plate.
Lobster in summer stew.
Restaurant Arnaud Nicolas / Facebook

Chez L'Ami Jean

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Chef Stéphane Jego’s heaving Left Bank bistro is perpetually packed. Like so few other Parisian chefs, Jego knows how to deliver beautiful, traditional French bistro food, modernized with tweaks so subtle most people won’t even notice. He’s barely touched the 1930s space since taking it over nearly two decades ago from a Basque rugby pub. The earthy dishes, often inspired by southwestern French farmhouse food, are so deeply satisfying you won’t mind the occasionally slow service or boisterous regulars. The menu includes Parmesan soup with cabbage and bonito flakes, roasted pigeon with thyme and garlic, roast lamb with smoked oregano, and light and fluffy rice pudding. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

Heaping cuts of roast pork in an iron skillet topped with sprigs of laurel.
Roast pork at Chez L’Ami Jean.
Chez L’Ami Jean

David Toutain

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After working with Alain Passard and Marc Veyrat, David Toutain first wowed Paris at Agapé Substance in Saint-Germain. Now he has his own place, and his constantly changing tasting menus (which range from 70 to 250 euros) deliver some of the boldest and most interesting food in Paris. Think dishes like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles; a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba; and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at very low temperatures for hours. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

A casual dining room with lots of exposed wood floors and walls, long farmhouse tables with simple chairs, and large windows for natural light.
The dining room at Restaurant David Toutain.
Thaï Toutain/Courtesy of Restaurant David Toutain

Golden Poppy

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Slaying a slew of negative local stereotypes about American food, the return of one of their own is proving to French diners that there’s actually some spectacularly good food in the United States. Chef Dominique Crenn moved from France to San Francisco in 1988, trained with Jeremiah Tower, and became the first female chef in the country to earn three Michelin stars at her restaurant L’Atelier Crenn. Now she’s opened Golden Poppy, named for the official flower of her adopted state, as a very personal homage to California cooking, all presented in trippy, through-the-looking-glass Victorian conservatory decor done by trendy designer Martin Brudnizki. The small-plates menu runs to dishes like Parker House rolls with shiso-miso sauce, egg-yolk jam, and rice cream; griddled corn tacos with grilled conch; and gem lettuce wraps of aged sea bream, mint, coriander, and Korean condiments. Don’t miss the coconut beignets with pineapple for dessert. Located in the Ninth Arrondissement.

A colorful restaurant interior with floral wraparound banquettes, light blue garden chairs, a large tree surrounded by shrubs in pots, mirrored walls, and plant studies covering the walls.
The trippy interior of Golden Poppy.
Jérome Galland

Raviolis Nord Establissements

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The small dining room may have bare-bones decor, but you’re here for the homemade jiaozi (small Beijing-style dumplings), which are probably the best meal you’ll find in Paris for a fiver. Served grilled or boiled in orders of 10, they’re stuffed with your choice of pork and green cabbage; mushrooms, beef, and celery; egg, chives, and shrimp; or tofu, mushrooms, and green cabbage. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

From above, a decorative plate containing a pile of dumplings beside a small bowl of chile sauce.
Jiaozi at Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est.
Deana Saukam

Faubourg Daimant

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Often acclaimed as the best vegan restaurant in Paris, Faubourg Daimant aspires to deliver high-level gastronomy regardless of its animal-free restrictions. Dishes show off the kitchen’s precise technical skills and culinary imagination, including items like carrots glazed with barbecue sauce and tofu croquettes meant to resemble pig’s trotters. The tiled dining room is a beautiful place for a meal too, and there’s also a pleasant courtyard for outdoor dining when the weather agrees. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

Les Arlots

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The neighborhood near the Gare du Nord train station is nondescript, and this tiny bistrot a vins packs its clients in like sardines. No one minds the humdrum location or the crowd, though, because the restaurant serves some of the best and most reasonably priced French comfort food in Paris. Chef Thomas Brachet’s chalkboard menu changes daily but always offers an irresistible mix of contemporary dishes — like a salad of green beans, apricots, speck, and fresh almonds, or John Dory meuniere with vegetable accras (beignets) — and traditional ones, which may include langoustines with house-made mayonnaise, or the best sausage and potato puree in Paris. The stuffed cabbage and rice pudding with cinnamon and orange shouldn’t be missed either. Be sure to book a few days ahead of time. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

Thick cuts of meat stacked on a plate.
A dish at Les Arlots.
Les Arlots/Facebook

Café les Deux Gares

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With charmingly quirky railroad themed decor by trendy British interior designer Luke Hall, this hotel restaurant is conveniently situated between the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est stations. But Café Les Deux Gares serves such bright, original, flavorful contemporary French cooking that it’s well worth a visit even if you don’t have a train to catch. Chef Jonathan Schweitzer’s chalkboard menu evolves according to what’s best at the market, expressing his culinary imagination with dishes like smoked scallops with raw cream, chives, and herb oil; line-caught red tuna with cherries, nasturtium leaves, and elderflower vinegar; and lovage sorbet with meringue and cucumber ribbons. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

The carefully studied interior of this handsome modern bistro — olive-green banquettes, globe lamps, dark wood tables, stenciled tile floors, and custom-made ceramic tableware — is a perfect reflection of the casually stylish Oberkampf quarter of the 11th arrondissement. Japanese-born chef Ryuya Ono serves an intriguingly creative menu of refined dishes with potent flavors. The menu evolves constantly but recent dishes express the chef’s exact and cosmopolitan style: suave haddock velouté with trout roe and smoked and charred potatoes; tuna sashimi lightly dressed with Stracciatella and translucent slices of cucumber and yellow peach; and a juicy suckling pig shoulder in a punchy clam jus. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Géosmine

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Young chef Maxime Bouttier first got noticed for his cooking at Mensae in the arty Belleville district of northeastern Paris. Now he’s gone out on his own with a stylish new bistro, set in a loft-like, white duplex in a former textile factory in the 11th Arrondissement. At Géosmine (“odor of the soil,” as in a freshly plowed field), Bouttier works to enhance and enunciate the natural flavors and textures of the produce he works with. On a recent menu, artichokes barigoule (braised in white wine and herbs) were wrapped in fine ribbons of lardo di Colonnata (fatback) to create a contrast of earthy tastes and textures, and green asparagus was slathered with pistachio cream and chickweed to similar effect. The most unusual dish on the menu is mamelle, or cow’s udder, served with raw cream, caviar, and seaweed, and the dessert not to miss is the baked-to-order cake of chocolate, vanilla, praline, and fleur de sel. At dinner, Geosmine serves a prix fixe menu, while lunch is a la carte. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Restaurant le Tagine

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Paris has dozens of North African restaurants serving couscous and tagines, but what sets this cheerful Moroccan restaurant apart is the outstanding quality of its produce, making it a favorite among Parisian chefs. Here, the couscous is made with fresh seasonal vegetables and succulent baby lamb from the Pyrenees. They also bake their bread and North African pastries in-house, while the wine list features an interesting selection of mostly natural wines. The atmosphere is vivid but avoids cartoonish indulgence, with mosaic-topped tables, lanterns, and candles. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Aux Bons Crus

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The tongue-in-cheek decor nods to les routiers, the roadside restaurants once frequented by truck drivers — think red-and-white checkered tablecloths, plastic bread baskets, and moleskin banquettes. Deals like a solid two-course meal for 16 euros, including wine, have kept this jaunty bistro packed since it opened. The menu changes constantly but you can expect dishes like celery remoulade with crabmeat, steak au poivre, stuffed cabbage, beef braised with carrots, and chocolate mousse. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A leg of roast chicken in sauce beside a glass of wine, metal tin of fries and basket of bread, all on a checkered tablecloth.
Roast chicken at Aux Bons Crus.
Restaurant les Marches/Facebook

Septime

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Given how hard it is to score a reservation at chef Bertrand Grébaut’s relaxed modern bistro, you’ll probably come to the table expecting a meal that will induce instant rapture. But that’s not Grébaut’s style. Instead, his cooking is “innocent, spontaneous, and balanced,” in the chef’s own words, which translates to superbly delicate, subtle dishes like mushrooms with oyster and foie gras bouillon, or seared tuna with raspberries and tomato water. Service is friendly and easygoing, and the loft-like space is airy. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A restaurant interior with bare wood farmhouse tables, simple chairs, large windows in an interior wall between dining sections, and metal spiral staircase.
The dining room at Septime.
Septime restaurant/Facebook

Clamato

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Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s seafood bar is perennially one of the hottest places in Paris right now. It does not take reservations, so if you want to beat the line, try to go right when it opens, at 7 p.m., or late, after 10 p.m. The menu changes daily, but offers dishes like smoked shrimp with roasted red pepper and white beans, tuna tartare, ceviche, oysters, crab fritters, and more. It also boasts terrific platters of raw seafood like clams, shrimp, sea snails, and other seaworthy delights. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Le 6 Paul Bert

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Le Paul Bert, one of the best-known bistros in Paris, successfully caters to the Gallic gastronomic stereotypes of tourists with traditional French bistro cooking. The restaurant’s edgy little sibling, Le 6 Paul Bert, is very different, offering inventive cooking in a contemporary French bistro. This popular, lively restaurant, outfitted with a marble counter and red tables, is now helmed by Pauline Séné, who’s emerged as one of the most talented female up-and-comers in Paris after a stint at (now closed) Fripon in Ménilmontant. In regularly changing menus, Séné proclaims her love of vegetables, fresh textures, and cosmopolitan flavors with dishes like yellow pollack with ajo blanco, zucchini, fennel, and apple; dill gnocchi with smoked herring; pigeon with creamed corn, prunes, and harissa; and brownies with miso caramel and peanuts. N.B. The 26 Euro lunch menu is one of the best buys in town. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Café du Coin

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Paris is filled with cafes du coin, or corner cafes, but very few of them serve such good food at such reasonable prices all day long. Run by trendsetting restaurateur Florent Ciccoli, this cheerful, popular place in the super bobo 11th Arrondissement changes its chalkboard menu daily, but you’ll likely find dishes like freshly baked pizzettes, caillette (a caul fat-wrapped, herb-filled sausage patty garnished with pickled mustard seeds on a bed of potato puree), and blood sausage with roasted corn and guindillas (pickled green peppers from Basque country). Don’t miss the lemon tart for dessert. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A close-up shot of several large cooked langoustines on a plate with a small crock of butter, resting on a counter beside the photographer’s hand.
Langoustines with mayonnaise and brown butter.
Café du Coin / Facebook

Mokonuts

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The talented couple Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama run this friendly cafe-bakery, the place to head for a casual but outstanding lunch or snack. French Lebanese chef Koreitem creates the savory dishes, such as bonito with spring tabbouleh, while Japanese chef Hirayama is a superb baker, serving up fennel, pickled lemon, and almond cookies, and flourless chocolate layer cake with coffee-mascarpone cream. Open from 8:45 a.m. to 6 p.m., it’s deservedly one of the most popular places in eastern Paris. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Pastries sit on a cooling rack.
Chouquettes at Mokonuts.
Mokonuts / Facebook

Amarante

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At his bistro that looks like an Edward Hopper painting near the Bastille, chef Christophe Philippe serves the best chocolate mousse in Paris. It’s made from the sublime chocolate produced by Italian Claudio Corallo on the tiny African islands of Sao Tome et Principe. Unctuous, funky, deep, this dark fluff will leave you with a craving you’ll never, ever escape. Located in the 12th Arrondissement.

Large windows let in blinding light on a dining room with wood walls, leather banquets, and tables.
The dining room at Amarante.
L’Amarante / Facebook

Phở Tài

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The 13th Arrondissement is the largest of Paris’s Asian neighborhoods, with a mixed population originating from China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. Head to Phở Tài for an excellent bo-bun composed of freshly made nem (deep-fried spring rolls) and sauteed beef on a bed of rice noodles with an umami-rich sauce. The namesake pho is very good, too. Located in the 13th Arrondissement.

Hands add chiles to a bowl of pho with bright green chopsticks.
An order of Petit Pho (small beef noodle soup).
Pete Kiehart

Young chef Mory Sacko has become a rising star of French gastronomy for the originality of his intriguing African French Japanese cooking in Montparnasse. The son of Malian immigrants to France, he grew up in the suburbs eating African dishes made by his mother and American fast food for an occasional treat. At a job at a big Paris luxury hotel, he discovered his fascination with cooking, and went on to work with two-Michelin-star chef Thierry Marx, a Japanophile who taught Sacko to love Japanese ingredients and techniques. Expect dishes like lobster in miso sauce with smoked pepper and lacto-fermented tomato, sole seasoned with togarashi shichimi, and lovage cooked inside of a banana leaf and served with a side of attieke, a couscous-like preparation of dried fermented cassava pulp. The name of the restaurant derives from the names of the chef and one of his heroes, Yasuke, the first and only African samurai, an emancipated Mozambican slave who lived in 16th-century Kyoto. Located in the 14th Arrondissement.

Roasted fish wrapped in a cylinder of banana leaf, resting to one side of a couscous salad dotted with herbs and flowers.
Sole cooked in a banana leaf.
Quentin Tourbez

L'Assiette

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It is quiet, hard-working, limelight-shunning chefs like David Rathgeber who make Paris such an enduringly terrific food city. He took over this locally famous restaurant — previously helmed by a flamboyant chef named Lulu who charmed the likes of late President François Mitterrand and other celebrities — and has made it one of the city’s best bistros. It’s well worth the trek to the quiet 14th Arrondissement for his deft take on traditional dishes like pork-knuckle rillettes with foie gras and a superb cassoulet. The menu also offers lighter fare, including sea bream tartare with green tomato and coriander jus, and cuttlefish carbonara. The creme caramel is nothing short of epic. Located in the 14th Arrondissement.

From above, a dish of mixed seafood in broth
Seafood at L’Assiette.
L’Assiette/Facebook

The bulk of Paris’s famed haute cuisine is fiscally out of reach for many. However Michelin-starred Comice, headed by Canadian chef Noam Gedalof and sommelier Etheliya Hananova (the two are married), is an indulgence that won’t completely melt your credit card. The look strikes a similar balance: elegant but relaxed, with striking arrangements from a renowned local florist. Hananova’s wine list — which features lesser-known wines from around the world — is terrific, as is Gedalof’s light, inventive contemporary French cooking. Try the duck foie gras with hazelnuts, strawberries, balsamic, and black pepper, or the roast chicken with polenta, wild mushrooms, and a salad of wild herbs. Located in the 16th Arrondissement.

A side table in a dining room with a vase of flowers, bread basket, and spirits.
The dining room at Comice.
Comice/Facebook

Prunier

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Founded in 1872 by Albert Prunier, this restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe has always epitomized Parisian chic and the city’s avid love of the best quality seafood, including the caviar that Prunier started producing on farms in the Aquitaine region in 1921. Most recently owned by the late Pierre Bergé, cofounder of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house, Prunier’s new proprietors hired chef Yannick Alleno, who earned three Michelin stars at Pavillon Ledoyen, to reboot the restaurant’s menu. Seated among the landmarked art-deco decor, be sure to try dishes like the Oeuf Christian Dior, a coddled egg on a bed of ham aspic in caviar-speckled cream; langoustines carpaccio with geranium and caviar; and the sole meuniere. Located in the 16th Arrondissement.

A glitzy, gold-accented round bar with a wall of Champagne fridges, a cloud-like sky, midcentury bar stools, and the name Prunier in large letters.
Champagne and caviar bar.
Nicolas Lobbestael

Le Maquis

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Located in the tranquil 18th Arrondissement far from the crowds of tourists around Sacre Coeur and the Place du Tertre, this laidback neighborhood bistro pulls a discerning crowd of locals and word-of-mouth customers from other parts of Paris for the excellent bistro cooking of Paul Boudier and Albert Touton. Many of their dishes have a Southern French or Italian accent, including superb homemade pastas, ceviche with shavings of poutargue (bottarga), and pork belly cooked in cider with roasted fennel. Located in the 18th Arrondissement.

Le Cadoret

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An old working-class neighborhood on the northeastern edge of Paris (and the birthplace of Édith Piaf), Belleville is coming on strong as one of the most interesting food neighborhoods in Paris. Brother-and-sister team Léa and Louis-Marie Fleuriot run this very affordable modern bistro in a former corner cafe. While she works the kitchen, he runs the dining room, and together they offer the kind of market-driven cooking that exemplifies the area. The petroleum-blue facade has big picture windows, and inside there’s an indigo-painted zinc-topped service bar, an open kitchen, and wooden tables with cloth napkins and French-made Opinel knives. The chalkboard menu changes daily but runs to dishes like mussels in creamy, saffron-spiked bisque, haddock in coriander court bouillon with mushrooms and potato puree, and egg-rich, caramel sauce-lashed creme caramel. Located in the 19th Arrondissement.

Le Baratin

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When Paris chefs want to unwind they head for this little wine bar in Belleville where Argentine-born self-taught chef Raquel Carena serves up some of the most deeply satisfying food in Paris. The chalkboard menu changes constantly, but Carena loves offal and fish, and her palate favors tart and sweet-and-sour flavors, as seen in dishes like mackerel tartare with smoked vinegar, tuna steak with black cherries, and rabbit and mushroom ragout with red wine sauce. The bohemian soul of rapidly gentrifying Belleville has taken refuge here, too. So go now while the good times last. Located in the 20th Arrondissement.

A server, seen through a wall cutout beneath a stuffed fish, prepares tables.
A server prepares a place setting before lunch service at Le Baratin.
Pete Kiehart

Tracé Restaurant

Located near the Comedie Francaise in the heart of Paris, chef Clément Vergeat’s highly praised new restaurant generates a low-lit, monastic atmosphere with a minimalist decor of gray chairs and bare wood tables. The small, quiet space creates a setting that allows you to concentrate on the intricate, original, and very subtle dishes that compose the chef’s regularly changing tasting menu. The two memorable dishes stuck out from a recent meal: The first was a raw langoustine steamed in seaweed vapor and topped with a nearly transparent ribbon of squid cured to resemble the Italian fatback known as Lardo di Colonnata. The othe was roasted pigeon with fermented strawberry puree, turnips, beets, and other winter vegetables. Located in the First Arrondissement.

L'Espadon

Young chef Eugénie Béziat’s debut as the new chef of Espadon, the Hotel Ritz’s headliner restaurant, represented a daring departure from the conventions of luxury hotel restaurants in Paris. Instead of foie gras and truffles, Béziat’s very personal cooking references the flavors and produce she knew from her childhood in West Africa even as she shows off her supreme mastery of French culinary technique. The chef’s signature dish is her chicken yassa, which combines French and Senegalese flavors in an heirloom fowl from Houdan in the Yvelines. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A large roast chicken in a pan with herbs and flowers.
Chicken yassa.
Emanuela Cino

Menkicchi

Right in the heart of the city, midway between the Opera Garnier and the Musee du Louvre, you’ll find a cluster of Japanese and other Asian restaurants along the Rue Sainte-Anne and adjoining streets. Stop by the very popular Menkicchi for some gyoza and a bowl of some of the city’s best ramen. The regulars love the Le Speciale ramen, which comes with handmade noodles in rich pork bouillon, a marinated egg, a slice of pork breast, and seaweed. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A bowl of ramen topped with slices of pork, egg, and scallion, beside a plate of gyoza with dipping sauce.
Ramen and gyoza.
Menkicchi

Juveniles

This friendly wine bar and bistro is the perfect place to find really good French comfort food and a great bottle of wine without the hassle of booking three months in advance. Scottish wine merchant and longtime Paris expat Tim Johnston founded the restaurant, which is now run by his daughter Margaux and her French boyfriend, Romain Roudeau. With Roudeau in the kitchen and the younger Johnston running the dining room, the pair orchestrate a Gallic gastronomic experience that lives up to their motto: “We always deliver the goods.” The menu follows the seasons, but the kitchen displays its style with dishes like celery soup with cockles, chives with whipped cream, sauteed wild mushroom with egg yolk and prosciutto cream, duckling filet with Swiss chard and chestnuts, and scallops with leek, baby potatoes, and parsley cream. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A cozy dining room, with guests seated at small tables and bottles of wine along the walls.
The dining room at Juveniles.
Juveniles

Granite

Hidden on a small side street on the edge of Les Halles in the heart of Paris, this intimate restaurant sports contemporary decor of cutout wooden paneling and an open kitchen. It’s become one of the most sought-after reservations in the city for the superb contemporary French cooking of young chef Thomas Meyer, the former sous chef to Anne-Sophie Pic at her three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Valence. Meyer presents his cooking in a tasting-menu format that showcases his perfectly tuned creativity, love of fresh seasonal produce, and culinary loyalty to his native Jura in the east of France. The menus evolve regularly, but standouts of a recent meal included a grilled cepe mushroom with meadowsweet-flavored sabayon and a sauce of deeply reduced mushroom jus and white miso; sea bream with kale in Granny Smith apple juice with a gelee of lovage; roast pigeon in a sauce of its own gizzards with green cardamom and citrus; and an intriguing dessert of rice pudding wrapped in rice roll with mirabelle plums stewed with vin jaune. Located in the First Arrondissement.

White fish fillet in a light colored broth in a gray bowl with crimped edges. On top of the fish are pieces of fried skin, leaves and flowers for garnish.
Pike perch, sparkling apple and colander broth, citrus leaves and lovage oil.
Paul Stefanaggi

Au Pied de Cochon

Channel your inner Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern by ordering the Tentation de Saint-Antoine (the Temptation of Saint Anthony), served at this famous brasserie in Les Halles that’s been open nonstop — 24/7 — since it opened in 1947. Saint Anthony is the patron saint of charcutiers, and this plate includes a muzzle, ears, breaded pig’s foot, and a tail with lashings of bearnaise sauce. This lively place satisfies less assertively carnivore appetites, too, with trays of oysters and other shellfish, and dishes like its famous onion soup and beautifully made sole meuniere. Located in the First Arrondissement.

A roasted pig’s foot on a plate beside a small pile of fries, cabbage garnish, and a boat of sauce.
Pig’s foot at Au Pied de Cochon.
Au Pied de Cochon / Facebook

La Bourse et la Vie

Chef Daniel Rose’s second Paris restaurant has become one of the city’s best bistros. He delivers superb versions of the rock-of-ages French dishes that people yearn to eat. His superb foie gras de canard comes to the table perched on a fresh artichoke heart with a dribble of aspic-like shallot vinaigrette on the side, a brilliant detail. Don’t miss the collier d’agneau provencal (braised lamb neck Provençal style) either. Located in the Second Arrondissement.

From above, a plate of sliced stake with fork and knife beside a separate plate of thick-cut fries.
Steak frites at La Bourse et La Vie.
La Bourse et La Vie/Facebook

Parcelles

From the moment it opened in May, 2021, this bistrots a vins in the Marais has been packed to the gills by a crowd who love proprietaire Sarah Michielsen’s hospitality, sommelier Bastin Fidelin’s wine list, and the delicious cosmopolitan modern bistro cooking of chef Julien Chevallier. The chalkboard menu evolves constantly but runs to dishes like baby clams steamed with herbs and shallots in white wine, vitello tonnato, braised beef cheek in breadcrumbs with a beef jus and baby vegetables, and tiramisu with toasted hazelnuts. This stylish comfort food is exactly what Paris is hungry for right now, especially paired with charming service and a great selection of wines by the glass. Located in the Third Arrondissement.

A green restaurant exterior with large windows looking in on rows of bottles.
Outside Parcelles.
Parcelle

L'Épicerie du Breizh Café

Brittany-born Bertrand Larcher’s brilliant creperies are found everywhere from Cancale to Tokyo. In Paris, Larcher’s kitchens star first-rate Breton produce, and his outpost in the Marais is a terrific choice for a meal of galettes and crepes. Go with a smoked herring- and potato-filled galette, then tuck into a matcha and white chocolate mousse-filled crepe garnished with strawberries. There are five other addresses in Paris, so check the website for the one nearest you. Located in the Third Arrondissement.

A crepe filled with fried egg and meat.
Breizh Café crêpe.
Meghan McCarron

Oktobre

Young chef Martin Maumet has created one of the best restaurants on the Left Bank with his nervy, vivid, and inventive French cooking. A meal in the minimalist, gallery-like space begins with an assortment of hors d’oeuvres and then segues into a suite of Asian-accented contemporary French dishes that showcase vegetables and seafood. The menu evolves constantly, but options might include Sardinian gnocchi with mussels in herb-garnished shellfish bouillon, free-range heirloom chicken with carrots, and Iberian pork with roasted root vegetables and chimichurri sauce. Desserts are often made with vegetables, as in the butternut squash ice cream with chestnuts, pistachios, and yuzu. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

Huîtrerie Régis

This minuscule, white-painted, no-reservations raw bar in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a pearl, and it serves the best bivalves in Paris. The owners get them shipped daily from pedigreed producers in the Marennes d’Oléron, Normandy, and Brittany on France’s Atlantic coast. Start with some smoked scallops, tuck into a dozen oysters, and finish up with the runny chocolate tart. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

From above, a large dish of shucked oysters, with bright shrimp and lemon wedges in the center
A plateau at l’Huîtrerie Régis.
Huitrerie Regis/Facebook

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

With its lace curtains, cut-glass room dividers, and bentwood chairs, this century-old bistro is why you put up with all those terrible hours in economy class to get to Paris. The boeuf bourguignon is the best in the city. The dish is a testament to Gallic genius, calling for slowly simmering meat to create a flavor-rich sauce from the juices. You must book in advance, and don’t miss the Grand Marnier souffle for dessert either. Located in the Sixth Arrondissement.

A chef spoons sauce over a steak on a prep table in a kitchen.
Chef Marc Amory prepares a Tournedos Rossini during lunch service at Joséphine Chez Dumonet.
Pete Kiehart

Arnaud Nicolas

With excellent handmade pates, sausages, and terrines, award-winning charcutier and chef Arnaud Nicolas has revived an ancient branch of French gastronomy. The space, on a leafy avenue in the silk-stocking Seventh Arrondissement, is decorated with exposed stone walls, a beamed ceiling, and battleship-gray moldings. Roasts and meat pies, Gallic pleasures that date back at least to the Middle Ages, figure as first courses, before an evolving menu filled with seasonal produce. Nicolas shows off his style with turbot cooked with cep mushrooms, salmon koulibiak for two, beef cheek braised with carrots in red wine, veal sweetbreads with girolles mushrooms, and a luscious chocolate souffle. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

A chef places thick cuts of lobster in a bed of other ingredients on a mostly clean white plate.
Lobster in summer stew.
Restaurant Arnaud Nicolas / Facebook

Chez L'Ami Jean

Chef Stéphane Jego’s heaving Left Bank bistro is perpetually packed. Like so few other Parisian chefs, Jego knows how to deliver beautiful, traditional French bistro food, modernized with tweaks so subtle most people won’t even notice. He’s barely touched the 1930s space since taking it over nearly two decades ago from a Basque rugby pub. The earthy dishes, often inspired by southwestern French farmhouse food, are so deeply satisfying you won’t mind the occasionally slow service or boisterous regulars. The menu includes Parmesan soup with cabbage and bonito flakes, roasted pigeon with thyme and garlic, roast lamb with smoked oregano, and light and fluffy rice pudding. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

Heaping cuts of roast pork in an iron skillet topped with sprigs of laurel.
Roast pork at Chez L’Ami Jean.
Chez L’Ami Jean

David Toutain

After working with Alain Passard and Marc Veyrat, David Toutain first wowed Paris at Agapé Substance in Saint-Germain. Now he has his own place, and his constantly changing tasting menus (which range from 70 to 250 euros) deliver some of the boldest and most interesting food in Paris. Think dishes like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles; a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba; and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at very low temperatures for hours. Located in the Seventh Arrondissement.

A casual dining room with lots of exposed wood floors and walls, long farmhouse tables with simple chairs, and large windows for natural light.
The dining room at Restaurant David Toutain.
Thaï Toutain/Courtesy of Restaurant David Toutain

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Golden Poppy

Slaying a slew of negative local stereotypes about American food, the return of one of their own is proving to French diners that there’s actually some spectacularly good food in the United States. Chef Dominique Crenn moved from France to San Francisco in 1988, trained with Jeremiah Tower, and became the first female chef in the country to earn three Michelin stars at her restaurant L’Atelier Crenn. Now she’s opened Golden Poppy, named for the official flower of her adopted state, as a very personal homage to California cooking, all presented in trippy, through-the-looking-glass Victorian conservatory decor done by trendy designer Martin Brudnizki. The small-plates menu runs to dishes like Parker House rolls with shiso-miso sauce, egg-yolk jam, and rice cream; griddled corn tacos with grilled conch; and gem lettuce wraps of aged sea bream, mint, coriander, and Korean condiments. Don’t miss the coconut beignets with pineapple for dessert. Located in the Ninth Arrondissement.

A colorful restaurant interior with floral wraparound banquettes, light blue garden chairs, a large tree surrounded by shrubs in pots, mirrored walls, and plant studies covering the walls.
The trippy interior of Golden Poppy.
Jérome Galland

Raviolis Nord Establissements

The small dining room may have bare-bones decor, but you’re here for the homemade jiaozi (small Beijing-style dumplings), which are probably the best meal you’ll find in Paris for a fiver. Served grilled or boiled in orders of 10, they’re stuffed with your choice of pork and green cabbage; mushrooms, beef, and celery; egg, chives, and shrimp; or tofu, mushrooms, and green cabbage. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

From above, a decorative plate containing a pile of dumplings beside a small bowl of chile sauce.
Jiaozi at Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est.
Deana Saukam

Faubourg Daimant

Often acclaimed as the best vegan restaurant in Paris, Faubourg Daimant aspires to deliver high-level gastronomy regardless of its animal-free restrictions. Dishes show off the kitchen’s precise technical skills and culinary imagination, including items like carrots glazed with barbecue sauce and tofu croquettes meant to resemble pig’s trotters. The tiled dining room is a beautiful place for a meal too, and there’s also a pleasant courtyard for outdoor dining when the weather agrees. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

Les Arlots

The neighborhood near the Gare du Nord train station is nondescript, and this tiny bistrot a vins packs its clients in like sardines. No one minds the humdrum location or the crowd, though, because the restaurant serves some of the best and most reasonably priced French comfort food in Paris. Chef Thomas Brachet’s chalkboard menu changes daily but always offers an irresistible mix of contemporary dishes — like a salad of green beans, apricots, speck, and fresh almonds, or John Dory meuniere with vegetable accras (beignets) — and traditional ones, which may include langoustines with house-made mayonnaise, or the best sausage and potato puree in Paris. The stuffed cabbage and rice pudding with cinnamon and orange shouldn’t be missed either. Be sure to book a few days ahead of time. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

Thick cuts of meat stacked on a plate.
A dish at Les Arlots.
Les Arlots/Facebook

Café les Deux Gares

With charmingly quirky railroad themed decor by trendy British interior designer Luke Hall, this hotel restaurant is conveniently situated between the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est stations. But Café Les Deux Gares serves such bright, original, flavorful contemporary French cooking that it’s well worth a visit even if you don’t have a train to catch. Chef Jonathan Schweitzer’s chalkboard menu evolves according to what’s best at the market, expressing his culinary imagination with dishes like smoked scallops with raw cream, chives, and herb oil; line-caught red tuna with cherries, nasturtium leaves, and elderflower vinegar; and lovage sorbet with meringue and cucumber ribbons. Located in the 10th Arrondissement.

Magma

The carefully studied interior of this handsome modern bistro — olive-green banquettes, globe lamps, dark wood tables, stenciled tile floors, and custom-made ceramic tableware — is a perfect reflection of the casually stylish Oberkampf quarter of the 11th arrondissement. Japanese-born chef Ryuya Ono serves an intriguingly creative menu of refined dishes with potent flavors. The menu evolves constantly but recent dishes express the chef’s exact and cosmopolitan style: suave haddock velouté with trout roe and smoked and charred potatoes; tuna sashimi lightly dressed with Stracciatella and translucent slices of cucumber and yellow peach; and a juicy suckling pig shoulder in a punchy clam jus. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Géosmine

Young chef Maxime Bouttier first got noticed for his cooking at Mensae in the arty Belleville district of northeastern Paris. Now he’s gone out on his own with a stylish new bistro, set in a loft-like, white duplex in a former textile factory in the 11th Arrondissement. At Géosmine (“odor of the soil,” as in a freshly plowed field), Bouttier works to enhance and enunciate the natural flavors and textures of the produce he works with. On a recent menu, artichokes barigoule (braised in white wine and herbs) were wrapped in fine ribbons of lardo di Colonnata (fatback) to create a contrast of earthy tastes and textures, and green asparagus was slathered with pistachio cream and chickweed to similar effect. The most unusual dish on the menu is mamelle, or cow’s udder, served with raw cream, caviar, and seaweed, and the dessert not to miss is the baked-to-order cake of chocolate, vanilla, praline, and fleur de sel. At dinner, Geosmine serves a prix fixe menu, while lunch is a la carte. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Restaurant le Tagine

Paris has dozens of North African restaurants serving couscous and tagines, but what sets this cheerful Moroccan restaurant apart is the outstanding quality of its produce, making it a favorite among Parisian chefs. Here, the couscous is made with fresh seasonal vegetables and succulent baby lamb from the Pyrenees. They also bake their bread and North African pastries in-house, while the wine list features an interesting selection of mostly natural wines. The atmosphere is vivid but avoids cartoonish indulgence, with mosaic-topped tables, lanterns, and candles. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Aux Bons Crus

The tongue-in-cheek decor nods to les routiers, the roadside restaurants once frequented by truck drivers — think red-and-white checkered tablecloths, plastic bread baskets, and moleskin banquettes. Deals like a solid two-course meal for 16 euros, including wine, have kept this jaunty bistro packed since it opened. The menu changes constantly but you can expect dishes like celery remoulade with crabmeat, steak au poivre, stuffed cabbage, beef braised with carrots, and chocolate mousse. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A leg of roast chicken in sauce beside a glass of wine, metal tin of fries and basket of bread, all on a checkered tablecloth.
Roast chicken at Aux Bons Crus.
Restaurant les Marches/Facebook

Septime

Given how hard it is to score a reservation at chef Bertrand Grébaut’s relaxed modern bistro, you’ll probably come to the table expecting a meal that will induce instant rapture. But that’s not Grébaut’s style. Instead, his cooking is “innocent, spontaneous, and balanced,” in the chef’s own words, which translates to superbly delicate, subtle dishes like mushrooms with oyster and foie gras bouillon, or seared tuna with raspberries and tomato water. Service is friendly and easygoing, and the loft-like space is airy. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A restaurant interior with bare wood farmhouse tables, simple chairs, large windows in an interior wall between dining sections, and metal spiral staircase.
The dining room at Septime.
Septime restaurant/Facebook

Clamato

Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s seafood bar is perennially one of the hottest places in Paris right now. It does not take reservations, so if you want to beat the line, try to go right when it opens, at 7 p.m., or late, after 10 p.m. The menu changes daily, but offers dishes like smoked shrimp with roasted red pepper and white beans, tuna tartare, ceviche, oysters, crab fritters, and more. It also boasts terrific platters of raw seafood like clams, shrimp, sea snails, and other seaworthy delights. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Le 6 Paul Bert

Le Paul Bert, one of the best-known bistros in Paris, successfully caters to the Gallic gastronomic stereotypes of tourists with traditional French bistro cooking. The restaurant’s edgy little sibling, Le 6 Paul Bert, is very different, offering inventive cooking in a contemporary French bistro. This popular, lively restaurant, outfitted with a marble counter and red tables, is now helmed by Pauline Séné, who’s emerged as one of the most talented female up-and-comers in Paris after a stint at (now closed) Fripon in Ménilmontant. In regularly changing menus, Séné proclaims her love of vegetables, fresh textures, and cosmopolitan flavors with dishes like yellow pollack with ajo blanco, zucchini, fennel, and apple; dill gnocchi with smoked herring; pigeon with creamed corn, prunes, and harissa; and brownies with miso caramel and peanuts. N.B. The 26 Euro lunch menu is one of the best buys in town. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Café du Coin

Paris is filled with cafes du coin, or corner cafes, but very few of them serve such good food at such reasonable prices all day long. Run by trendsetting restaurateur Florent Ciccoli, this cheerful, popular place in the super bobo 11th Arrondissement changes its chalkboard menu daily, but you’ll likely find dishes like freshly baked pizzettes, caillette (a caul fat-wrapped, herb-filled sausage patty garnished with pickled mustard seeds on a bed of potato puree), and blood sausage with roasted corn and guindillas (pickled green peppers from Basque country). Don’t miss the lemon tart for dessert. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

A close-up shot of several large cooked langoustines on a plate with a small crock of butter, resting on a counter beside the photographer’s hand.
Langoustines with mayonnaise and brown butter.
Café du Coin / Facebook

Mokonuts

The talented couple Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama run this friendly cafe-bakery, the place to head for a casual but outstanding lunch or snack. French Lebanese chef Koreitem creates the savory dishes, such as bonito with spring tabbouleh, while Japanese chef Hirayama is a superb baker, serving up fennel, pickled lemon, and almond cookies, and flourless chocolate layer cake with coffee-mascarpone cream. Open from 8:45 a.m. to 6 p.m., it’s deservedly one of the most popular places in eastern Paris. Located in the 11th Arrondissement.

Pastries sit on a cooling rack.
Chouquettes at Mokonuts.
Mokonuts / Facebook

Amarante

At his bistro that looks like an Edward Hopper painting near the Bastille, chef Christophe Philippe serves the best chocolate mousse in Paris. It’s made from the sublime chocolate produced by Italian Claudio Corallo on the tiny African islands of Sao Tome et Principe. Unctuous, funky, deep, this dark fluff will leave you with a craving you’ll never, ever escape. Located in the 12th Arrondissement.

Large windows let in blinding light on a dining room with wood walls, leather banquets, and tables.
The dining room at Amarante.
L’Amarante / Facebook

Phở Tài

The 13th Arrondissement is the largest of Paris’s Asian neighborhoods, with a mixed population originating from China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. Head to Phở Tài for an excellent bo-bun composed of freshly made nem (deep-fried spring rolls) and sauteed beef on a bed of rice noodles with an umami-rich sauce. The namesake pho is very good, too. Located in the 13th Arrondissement.

Hands add chiles to a bowl of pho with bright green chopsticks.
An order of Petit Pho (small beef noodle soup).
Pete Kiehart

Mosuke

Young chef Mory Sacko has become a rising star of French gastronomy for the originality of his intriguing African French Japanese cooking in Montparnasse. The son of Malian immigrants to France, he grew up in the suburbs eating African dishes made by his mother and American fast food for an occasional treat. At a job at a big Paris luxury hotel, he discovered his fascination with cooking, and went on to work with two-Michelin-star chef Thierry Marx, a Japanophile who taught Sacko to love Japanese ingredients and techniques. Expect dishes like lobster in miso sauce with smoked pepper and lacto-fermented tomato, sole seasoned with togarashi shichimi, and lovage cooked inside of a banana leaf and served with a side of attieke, a couscous-like preparation of dried fermented cassava pulp. The name of the restaurant derives from the names of the chef and one of his heroes, Yasuke, the first and only African samurai, an emancipated Mozambican slave who lived in 16th-century Kyoto. Located in the 14th Arrondissement.

Roasted fish wrapped in a cylinder of banana leaf, resting to one side of a couscous salad dotted with herbs and flowers.
Sole cooked in a banana leaf.
Quentin Tourbez

L'Assiette

It is quiet, hard-working, limelight-shunning chefs like David Rathgeber who make Paris such an enduringly terrific food city. He took over this locally famous restaurant — previously helmed by a flamboyant chef named Lulu who charmed the likes of late President François Mitterrand and other celebrities — and has made it one of the city’s best bistros. It’s well worth the trek to the quiet 14th Arrondissement for his deft take on traditional dishes like pork-knuckle rillettes with foie gras and a superb cassoulet. The menu also offers lighter fare, including sea bream tartare with green tomato and coriander jus, and cuttlefish carbonara. The creme caramel is nothing short of epic. Located in the 14th Arrondissement.

From above, a dish of mixed seafood in broth
Seafood at L’Assiette.
L’Assiette/Facebook

Comice

The bulk of Paris’s famed haute cuisine is fiscally out of reach for many. However Michelin-starred Comice, headed by Canadian chef Noam Gedalof and sommelier Etheliya Hananova (the two are married), is an indulgence that won’t completely melt your credit card. The look strikes a similar balance: elegant but relaxed, with striking arrangements from a renowned local florist. Hananova’s wine list — which features lesser-known wines from around the world — is terrific, as is Gedalof’s light, inventive contemporary French cooking. Try the duck foie gras with hazelnuts, strawberries, balsamic, and black pepper, or the roast chicken with polenta, wild mushrooms, and a salad of wild herbs. Located in the 16th Arrondissement.

A side table in a dining room with a vase of flowers, bread basket, and spirits.
The dining room at Comice.
Comice/Facebook

Prunier

Founded in 1872 by Albert Prunier, this restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe has always epitomized Parisian chic and the city’s avid love of the best quality seafood, including the caviar that Prunier started producing on farms in the Aquitaine region in 1921. Most recently owned by the late Pierre Bergé, cofounder of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house, Prunier’s new proprietors hired chef Yannick Alleno, who earned three Michelin stars at Pavillon Ledoyen, to reboot the restaurant’s menu. Seated among the landmarked art-deco decor, be sure to try dishes like the Oeuf Christian Dior, a coddled egg on a bed of ham aspic in caviar-speckled cream; langoustines carpaccio with geranium and caviar; and the sole meuniere. Located in the 16th Arrondissement.

A glitzy, gold-accented round bar with a wall of Champagne fridges, a cloud-like sky, midcentury bar stools, and the name Prunier in large letters.
Champagne and caviar bar.
Nicolas Lobbestael

Le Maquis

Located in the tranquil 18th Arrondissement far from the crowds of tourists around Sacre Coeur and the Place du Tertre, this laidback neighborhood bistro pulls a discerning crowd of locals and word-of-mouth customers from other parts of Paris for the excellent bistro cooking of Paul Boudier and Albert Touton. Many of their dishes have a Southern French or Italian accent, including superb homemade pastas, ceviche with shavings of poutargue (bottarga), and pork belly cooked in cider with roasted fennel. Located in the 18th Arrondissement.

Le Cadoret

An old working-class neighborhood on the northeastern edge of Paris (and the birthplace of Édith Piaf), Belleville is coming on strong as one of the most interesting food neighborhoods in Paris. Brother-and-sister team Léa and Louis-Marie Fleuriot run this very affordable modern bistro in a former corner cafe. While she works the kitchen, he runs the dining room, and together they offer the kind of market-driven cooking that exemplifies the area. The petroleum-blue facade has big picture windows, and inside there’s an indigo-painted zinc-topped service bar, an open kitchen, and wooden tables with cloth napkins and French-made Opinel knives. The chalkboard menu changes daily but runs to dishes like mussels in creamy, saffron-spiked bisque, haddock in coriander court bouillon with mushrooms and potato puree, and egg-rich, caramel sauce-lashed creme caramel. Located in the 19th Arrondissement.

Le Baratin

When Paris chefs want to unwind they head for this little wine bar in Belleville where Argentine-born self-taught chef Raquel Carena serves up some of the most deeply satisfying food in Paris. The chalkboard menu changes constantly, but Carena loves offal and fish, and her palate favors tart and sweet-and-sour flavors, as seen in dishes like mackerel tartare with smoked vinegar, tuna steak with black cherries, and rabbit and mushroom ragout with red wine sauce. The bohemian soul of rapidly gentrifying Belleville has taken refuge here, too. So go now while the good times last. Located in the 20th Arrondissement.

A server, seen through a wall cutout beneath a stuffed fish, prepares tables.
A server prepares a place setting before lunch service at Le Baratin.
Pete Kiehart

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